Off the Cuff

Moving Shop - OTC Part II

2010-06-04T13:34:00.004-04:00

I am very happy to let you know that come Monday, you will be seeing Off the Cuff in a new light, on a new platform and with a brand new look. After a lot of research, reflection and testing I have decided to pick up and move to WordPress.

I've been holding back until the switch, but I have a stack of posts to get up (like my recent visit to Nike Golf's amazing R&D facility down in Texas, updates on OTC's partnership with Alan Flusser and the BeSpeak app, and reviews for some great brands including Bresciani socks and my fantastic new Ignatious Joseph shirt.

This switch will give me more flexibility and creativity, two attributes that will be in high demand moving forward. It's time for the brand to grow and improve, but the content, philosophy and message remain unchanged. Same address too: www.OffTheCuffDC.com.

I hope you like the new and improved OTC; it will be a work in progress for a couple of days as things get sorted out, colors tweaked, graphics finalized and tools installed. So, hang in there and let me know what you think.

Last but not nearly least, I want to thank every one of my readers - more than 20,000 of you from 43 countries at last count. You continually push me to do more, be better and hopefully provide the OTC community with useful and interesting advice, commentary and information.

So, throw on your blue blazer and Nantucket reds (it is summer after all), grab yourself a gin & tonic (it's also Friday) and come Monday wander on over for a look-see...

A Classic: The Canvas Tote

2010-05-27T15:34:00.008-04:00

I have a lifelong appreciation for designs that respect a product’s utilitarian roots.

Classic and traditional styles have always done that. In fact, the hallmark of the true preppy aesthetic is the re-purposing of utilitarian items for everyday life: foul weather gear becomes a fashion statement, prep school ties and jackets appear in the office, and the steamer trunk great uncle Dan used at Yale is now a snazzy coffee table at the beach house.

A great example of this approach to life – utilitarian yet stylish – is the canvas tote bag. The most famous version of this functional workhorse is made by L.L. Bean. In fact, L.L. Bean literally invented the canvas tote bag category. The bag was originally developed to carry blocks of ice (back in the day when block ice was used to keep foods fresh in the ice box).

A nicely aged tote

From these humble beginnings, the bag quickly became recognized for its simple yet elegant functionality. L.L. Bean started to offer the canvas tote in a smaller version and called it the “boat & tote.” It was perfect for lugging around sailing and boating items and the more abuse it suffered the better it looked. So began the WASPy affinity for this multipurpose wonder.

As the Official Preppy Handbook cheekily pointed out, every New England family has several of these lying around the house. In some ways, these canvas totes are a sort of status symbol. That you know what these bags represent – where to get them, the history, even the perceived lifestyle they imply – makes them recognized and desirable.

Heritage Research, a workwear inspired British brand, even convinced L.L. Bean to produce a limited run of the original 30oz cotton duck ice tote bag.

Courtesy of Selectism.com

The L.L. Bean canvas tote bag has been liberally copied by many competitors. The basic design has even been reinterpreted by suppliers to Wall Street brokerage houses and white shoe law firms. Their logoed bags, given as employee gifts or awards, have become New York chic collector items. Go figure.

It is not uncommon to see these bags on the subway commuting to work with their owners. They are neutrally appealing and bring a bit of the outdoors to the office without being at all kitschy. The midsized L.L. Bean version is perfectly proportioned to hold everyday stuff along with lunch or a morning bagel.

Alan Flusser on Your iPhone: The Killer-Look App

2010-05-23T22:00:00.017-04:00

For some time I have been alluding to a big project of which OTC is part; well it's now live and ready to go. I am working with legendary clothier and menswear authority Alan Flusser on an amazing new free iPhone application called BeSpeak.

I am BeSpeak's online and social media brand ambassador. This means that I will be telling the BeSpeak story to anyone who will listen and helping our BeSpeak team look for new and innovative opportunities to show men how the app works, what it can do for their sartorial lives and help continue to grow the BeSpeak brand.

Does this mean that Off The Cuff will fall by the wayside? Quite the opposite, actually. OTC is about to receive a long overdue aesthetic and technical upgrade to help it be an even better resource for the 20,000 plus readers from more than 43 countries who look to OTC for help on making classic style work for today's gentleman.

What is BeSpeak? It's is nothing less than a virtual Alan Flusser sitting on your shoulder advising you about what clothing works for you and only you. In fact, it took the development team more than a year to translate Alan's exceptional taste and knowledge into a mobile application.

In terms of the kinds of applications submitted to Apple for consideration, BeSpeak is up there as one heck of a complex app. And while this is a pretty amazing starting point, it's only the beginning. You can learn more at BeSpeak.com.

Alan Flusser has sold more books on men’s fashion and style than anyone else and with BeSpeak, he now provides invaluable skill-improving, individual-specific, dressing advice directly to you.

What does it do? BeSpeak provides guidance for men's business formal outfits (suit, dress shirt, tie, and pocket square). Dressing well is easier than you probably think; in fact, it's a skill that can be taught and used every day. The difference between looking presentable and looking incredible lies in having a style personalized for you and you alone. And that’s exactly what the BeSpeak app does – it provides personal recommendations and fashion evaluations based on your unique physical characteristics.

To ensure that every suggestion is right for you, BeSpeak lets you create a detailed personal profile based on your hair color, skin tone, eye color, face shape and body shape. Once your profile is active, you get specific profile-driven outfit recommendations, you can coordinate and evaluate clothes from your own wardrobe and instantly evaluate new clothes or potential outfits on-the-go.

BeSpeak is perfect for your friends, family and loved ones too, because you can simply input a profile and take the guesswork out of gift giving. In fact, you can build the ultimate closet by storing profile-perfect clothes. And BeSpeak is not only for men but also for women shopping for the men in their lives; it's like having the ultimate personal stylist at your fingertips.

We are beginning with business formal dressing style and will soon add business casual and weekend casual style guides, as well as links to profile-perfect clothes sold online. All in all, I am thrilled that the app has launched and that I get to work with this amazing team as we move on to the next phase of BeSpeak.

Please take a moment to download the BeSpeak app and remember to comment on and rate it. We want your feedback, good and bad! Here is the link for the free download to your iPhone and iPodTouch: http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/bespeak/id372284641?mt=8

Who Is Alan Flusser?
Mr. Flusser attracted national attention for designing Michael Douglas' wardrobe in the movie “Wall Street,” as well as acclaim for his work on the films “Barbarians at the Gate” and “Scent of a Woman” with Al Pacino.

Alan Flusser

Alan is the president of A.Flusser Designs founded in 1979. He received the Coty Award for Top Menswear Designer in 1985 and the Cutty Sark Award in 1987 for his first two books' "unique contribution to the literature of menswear."

The author of four books, his “Dressing The Man: Mastering The Art of Permanent Fashion,” published by Harper Collins in 2002, is considered the most definitive work on the subject of men's style. Just released is an updated edition of his 1996 classic "Style and the Man." In 1988, Alan was placed on the International Best-Dressed List as a permanent member.

Vented Interests: Single, Double or None

2010-05-17T09:31:00.010-04:00

In fashion, certain cultural indicators are reassuringly obvious. They can clearly say “French,” like a Hermes briefcase, or “American,” like a Louisville Slugger baseball bat. Often, they are immutable, solid and stable examples of permanence in a fast changing global marketplace.

However, as the saying goes, the only constant thing in life is change. The classic American single vented jacket has become quite popular overseas. In return, many American men have become quite the devotees of the double vent, also referred to as side vents. Only a short time ago it seems wearing one or the other put you in a clear camp; American or Anglophile. Not so much anymore.

While both these innovations can trace their roots back to hacking jackets worn during equestrian activities, each varies in form and somewhat in function. The single vent ably accomplishes its primary task of allowing the jacket’s skirt to drape more naturally across a horse’s hindquarters. However, when not on horseback, the single vent is not entirely ideal. When seated more conventionally in a chair, the spreading vent produces an unattractive gap which some find unattractive. The single vented jacket also bunches awkwardly to one side when you try and retrieve your keys or money clip.

Though it functionally accomplishes the same task, stylistically speaking double vent are to the single what banging rocks together are to a Cartier lighter. When seated on a horse or at the dining table, the double vents not only prevent your jacket from encasing you like a sausage, they continue to cover your posterior while comfortably draping the jacket’s skirt over your rear. Another benefit, discussed by noted clothier Alan Flusser, is that when you put your hands in your trouser pockets the double vent allows easy access while not disturbing the lines of your jacket.

The options: Single, Double, None

Double vents are more elegant and generally seen as formal in design. The single vent is less elaborate and therefore considered more casual. Also tied to the single vented jacket is its inherent American egalitarianism – formal, but not too formal – whereas the double vent speaks to an additional level of sophistication.

The sack suit helped define what is to this day seen as the “American” shape: natural shoulders with minimal padding, a less defined body shape and a single center vent. Traditional British tailoring produces the classic English cut: defined and padded shoulders, nipped waist, a double breasted front and, of course, double vents.

Over the past several years, designers and retailers have re-discovered the sport coat and it’s more focused cousin, the blazer. More often than not, retailers are offering sport coats of the double vented variety, seen by Americans as a more classy option. Blazers, for the most part, with their defined sartorial role, tend to retain their East Coast center vented construction.

This is in part due to the sustained resurgence in traditional American preppy style, both in the states and Europe. After all, what is more preppy than the single breasted, center vent blue blazer? This theme has carried over to all sorts of variations, from patchwork madras summer jackets to heavy tweed Ivy League versions for the fall.

Don’t worry; I have not forgotten the ventless jacket. This definitive example of form over function is, at its soul, an Italian fixation. Ever seeking the perfect unobstructed line, Italian tailors embrace the ventless jacket like no other. It is smooth, elegant, uncluttered. Of course when buttoned, it is exceedingly difficult to actually sit down or bend over to retrieve one’s pen, but, in matters of fashion that is irrelevant.

Regardless of what’s in vogue at any given point in time, choose what best fits your personal style, body shape and needs. The classic American center vent is functional and speaks of practical, classic style. Double vented jackets have an inherent air of elegance and Britishness. The ventless jacket is an homage to sleek and stylish Italian tailoring.

You may have your favorites, but when it comes to any of these, there are no wrong choices.

Review: Style & The Man

2010-05-14T01:09:00.008-04:00

I was recently in New York City, meeting with Alan Flusser, with whom I will be working on an exciting and significant project, and was given an advance copy of Style & The Man. The book, which is an updated and trimmed down re-release of the seminal sartorial guide, hit the shelves this week and I have to say, it's good to have Mr. Flusser back.

It’s an excellent guide for anyone looking to get a better understanding about the sometimes intimidating world of tailored menswear. More so, it’s also an invaluable resource when it comes to explaining what to look for in your clothes, how they should look on you and how you should feel in them.

The book is a fresh take on the first half of the original Style & The Man - an outstanding tome in its own right. He's dispensed with the extensive shopping guide that comprised the original's second half, but in reality nothing is lost. What we are left with is a straightforward guide on dressing well, fully updated for life in 2010. It's a trim, easily portable volume of 137 pages that's packed with great advice.

As Alan told me, “this book is one resource that men can go to and get a reasonably logical and fact based perspective on dressing well. In this era of designer and opinion driven fashion, the world is not, at the moment, overstocked in materials or academia devoted to the style aspiring consumer.”

Alan Flusser

That “Alan Flusser” is the byword for sartorial exceptionalism is really not a surprise once you spend some time with him. More than any other menswear authority, he understands the mechanics of personal style. Skin tone, hair color, eye color, face shape, body type and even your neck height, all play a significant role in finding the right colors, patterns and styles that work for you. What about your physique - are you short or tall, heavy or trim?

Once you understand your own profile, you know what to look for when you hit the mall, or, you know, the bespoke tailor should you be feeling flush. Alan has spent his life studying the unique role that color and proportion play in how clothing affects the wearer. There is a reason Ralph Lauren says he's one of the most knowledgeable experts on men's fashion.

Classic Flusser

“Much like golf or tennis, dressing is a skill that can be taught and learned,” says Alan. In Style & The Man he discusses things like what to look for in shirts, shoes and neck wear, and explains the importance of fit and the keystone role of your shoulders. He illuminates the reader about seemingly obscure topics like why lapel width matters and clarifies larger issues such as the long-term value of a bespoke suit.

Did you know that good foot wear and a hand rolled pocket square can make any outfit look better; do you know why? This is the practical yet elusive advice that makes a real difference. This book probably belongs in every man's library, even if he thinks he doesn't need it. Especially if he thinks he doesn't need it!

OTC Endorses: BraeVal Apparel

2010-05-11T01:30:00.007-04:00

I’m wearing a very unique shirt right now, from a company called BraeVal. It’s not a dress shirt and it’s not really a sport shirt. It has a nice tattersall look to it; big chest pockets to store lots of gear, zip-out underarm vents and a handy secret stash pocket down along the bottom hem.

From the outside though, it looks like a dressy casual weekend shirt, maybe something you could wear under a sport jacket. This shirt, called the ExVenturer, is a bit of a hybrid; technically ready for adventure but in a classy bourbon-on-the-rocks kind of way.

The shirt’s red and black contrast edging, peeking out from the collar and placket – that All American Buffalo Plaid – isn’t a mere marketing design play. It’s actually the family tartan of Gregor McCluskey, the guy who designed the shirt. Gregor is the founder of BraeVal Sporting Apparel, a Connecticut based hi-performance collection of rough and rugged, wilderness-themed apparel.

McCluskey is a genuine adventurer and outdoor sportsman - not just a stylized brand character. A noted falconer, marksman, sailor and globe-trotting sportsman who counts fly- and salt-water fishing, competitive skeet and clay shooting and game hunting among his passions, he created his BraeVal Sporting Apparel to fill what he saw as a a yawning void in the market for a line-up of sportswear that stylishly marries high-tech functional performance with high-end fashion.

Named for his ancestral homeland, every BraeVal garment is a built to perform. Whether shirts, trousers, shorts or outerwear, all are designed to effortlessly satisfy the rigorous demands of field wear and, at the same time, deliver a stylishly handsome savior faire worthy of a G&T on the country club’s veranda.

And all are colorfully accented with the Rob Roy MacGregor tartan that has symbolized his family clan for more than 800 years. In fact, each BraeVal order is accompanied by a MacGregor tartan handkerchief.

Anchored by a collection of functionally mountain-ready tops that McCluskey calls the "Range Rover” of Shirts," all tout visually dramatic colors interpreted in authentic Scottish checks, tattersalls, plaids and Tartans. Despite their smart looks, and remarkable comfort, these shirts are built for use and abuse. Many are woven from a propriety wicking fabric that feel just like a silky cotton but pulls moisture away from your body, ensuring comfort out in the field.

When ordering, consider going down a size as the shirts are cut very full; especially of your adventures will consist of running errands and a back yard cookout. BraeVal Sporting Apparel is headquartered in Connecticut’s Litchfield Hills. Learn more about this remarkable company HERE.

OTC in NYC

2010-05-06T00:18:00.007-04:00

I'm in New York for some meetings on a major project that will be announced shortly. Our team had a nice dinner in the West Village and afterwords we strolled over to the East side.

Along the way, we passed by the world famous Strand Bookstore and I had the chance to duck in and a take a quick look. I had just received an advance copy of Alan Flusser's Style & the Man, so I had to check in with the door guard to let him know that I wasn't stealing a book that, technically speaking, does not yet exist!

We also passed by Magnolia Bakery, with their outstanding cupcakes.

J. Crew in Georgetown

2010-05-03T16:55:00.000-04:00

Last Tuesday evening, the J. Crew Men's Shop in Georgetown was closed down for a private cocktail party with Frank Muytjens and an invited cross section of Washington D.C.'s style crowd. OTC was happy to be on the list.

Frank is the head menswear designer for J. Crew, so if you love the weathered updated East Coast, Ivy League look that defines the brand, you can thank him. I had the chance to chat with him about the J. Crew brand, it's incredibly successful collaborations and what's next for J. Crew.

One of the key aspects of J. Crew's approach to menswear is to take the basics and make them better, but just slightly. As my dad, a genuine prep school Ivy Leaguer, recently said, "J. Crew is preppy amped up to the nth degree."

As Frank puts it, "we look for the classics and tweak them just enough to keep them fresh." This translates to leaner overall lines, trimmer legs and arms, higher armholes and more creative finishing. There aren't many brands that can make a gray herringbone tweed sport coat (1) cool, and (2) comfortable enough to wear just lounging around the house. J. Crew does.

When it came to the issue of J. Crew's inspired collaborations with some of the best known traditional "trad" brands, like old school shoemaker Alden, Frank explained that not all of them fell seamlessly into place. In the case of Alden, he told me that, "basically, we had to follow up with them a couple of times and explain what we wanted to do." "The Indy boot and the longwing are classics and, since our company wasn't really on their radar, they needed to figure out if this was a good fit for Alden."

By all accounts, it sure is. I hope to get my hands on a pair of those fantastic shoes soon. I even took a shot of Frank's pair - see below.

With J. Crew's Frank Muytjens

"Rules For My Unborn Son" author Walker Lamond

Frank's Alden For J.Crew longwings

Here are some additional photos from the event:

OTC Endorses: ETWAS Bags

2010-04-28T15:33:00.031-04:00

When Will Lisak, founder of ETWAS Bags first got in touch with me, it was in the form of a challenge.

He left a comment on a post about Jack Bauer’s bag, from the show “24,” stating that his bag was tougher than Jack’s. After getting to know a little bit more about Will and his small company, ETWAS, German for “something,” I had little doubt.

Will is a graphics design graduate whose dad taught him how to make small leather goods while growing up in western Pennsylvania. In fact, the tannery near his childhood home is where Will now gets the exceptionally fine and thick hides for his ETWAS bags.

A pragmatic guy, Will designed his original bag to simply fit a need at hand. He wanted a bike bag that served the practical purpose of carrying stuff while reflecting his aesthetic and environmental concerns.

Will told me, “I wanted to create my ideal bag, not something was going to be dated in a few years.” The resulting prototype was simple, plain, sturdy and functionally stylish. It’s reminiscent of a classic dispatch case but also embodies distinct elements of a messenger bag.

My ETWAS bag in Natural

Two narrow but sturdy straps secure a single, giant compartment. On either end of the bag, D-rings provide additional functionality. The solid brass hardware is sturdy but simple, almost discreet. On the front of the bag, those two straps can also be used to store a small notebook or folded newspaper.

The bag’s body consists of three pieces: the center wrap that creates the front, back, bottom and top flap; and the two side panels. This clean, almost minimalist design creates the illusion of compactness, but don’t be fooled. It’s actually a big bag. The overall message this bag sends is one of near-familiarity. You think you recognize it, but quickly realize that, no, it’s something different.

Thick and sturdy harness leather

Completely hand stitched

What’s also distinctive is its inherent imperfection. Since it's entirely handmade – no machines whatsoever – there is a rustic roughness to the bag's finishing. The edges are raw, except on the darker stained versions, and on the leather's unfinished underside, you might see template markings from when the cutter went a bit off course.

So, each bag bears the nuances and hallmarks of the person who made it. My own bag's very minimal idiosyncrasies don't bother me at all. Quite the opposite; I often wonder about the guy who made my bag. Because of the personal nature of their construction, each bag takes about five hours to make, the connection between maker and owner is almost tangible.

Let me point out that I purchased my bag a special discount directly related to my testing and review. Also, the images used throughout this article are from ETWAS. I tried to take a few pictures of my bag and did not come remotely close to Will in capturing the style, detail and elements of construction.

The real star of this bag is the outstanding leather Will sources. Thick and stiff, it takes time to wear in and though it will never really soften in the traditional sense, it will conform to the owner’s body and ease over time. It’s just beautiful stuff. The regular compliments I receive are evenly split between the bag's overall look and the leather itself.

ETWAS craftsman at work

When you buy an ETWAS bag, you are investing in the kind of manufacture that is the antithesis of name brand large-scale production. While not inexpensive at $400.00, Will could easily charge double based on material and labor costs alone. With ETWAS, you are buying outstanding durability, one of a kind design and a genuine belief in keeping local, staying green and dedication to quality.

Will’s commitment to thoughtful production is evident in the fact that there is no ETWAS factory. Work is primarily done in a Brooklyn co-op facility. But everything needed to make an ETWAS bag can be found in the Design Box, a totally portable workshop that allows each craftsman to set up shop wherever he happens to be.

Each individual leather worker is the brawn that crafts every bag by hand. And by handmade, I mean no machines at all; not even for the Goodyear stitching on saddle-thick leather end panels. They use a reinforced palm cushion to help drive a giant needle through the hide - no easy task. And true to his green beliefs they don’t use any lighting. When the sun goes down, they’re done for the day.

The bag in Dark Brown

Will is working to get the bag into more stores in Manhattan and to increase the brand’s online awareness. OTC wishes him luck and is happy to be an ETWAS kind of guy.

To learn more about ETWAS the company and its dedication to low impact manufacturing, environmental sustainability and craftsmanship, please visit the company’s website.

Classic Style Is Always Green

2010-04-23T15:57:00.004-04:00

In honor of Earth Day, I decided to revisit one of my favorite columns on the green aspects of classic style. Now more than ever, it’s important to think about the effects, small and large, that we have on the environment and on our rather tiny planet.

Classic style – however you choose to characterize it – has the singular benefit of longevity. While nothing is always in style, the whole point of preppy, Ivy League, classic or trad dress is to hold on to things until they fall apart. Then you fix ‘em up and wear them for another 20 years. It’s part of the appeal.

I applaud brands like Zara, H&M and Topman for making suits, blazers, ties and dress shirts not only cool, but wardrobe staples for young men with a growing and increasingly sophisticated sense of personal style. But I am genuinely concerned about the disposable nature of such of-the-moment clothing. The fast fashion explosion has also created a fast disposal culture. There is a cost to everything, financial and environmental.

So, as we close out this year’s Earth Week, let’s also think about simple and, yes, small ways to make changes in our own sartorial lives. Save up a little more and get some J. Press oxfords or Allen Edmonds shoes. Both will last you years if not decades and look better as they age. Think about buying one custom suit instead three cheap ones. You don’t have to spend $5,000; VM Clothiers in Washington, D.C. can make you an excellent suit for around $600.

We are all in different financial brackets and different stages of life, but each in our own way can make a few conscious changes to make our own footprint a little smaller.

A few years ago, the employees at Eni, Italy’s largest power company, agreed to shed their ties and cut back on air conditioning in an effort to help fight global warming.

The company’s offices in Rome and Milan began a tentative experiment in what it called, “lighter and cooler office attire.” Though by all accounts it was a success, employees made it very clear that they expected to return to proper clothing as the weather cooled into autumn.

Italians voluntarily ditching their ties is a pretty big deal. Those fantastic, large-knotted creations that men the world over vainly attempt to duplicate, gone for an entire summer? Luckily, the loss of a mere tie did not send workplace standards into a sartorial tailspin as it has in too many offices across America. Tie or no tie, Italians do have their standards.

This experiment, though remarkable from a cultural perspective, presents an excellent argument for paying attention to what you wear, buying for quality, and focusing on real, timeless style. In fact, it is a great teaching moment: focusing on style actually helps the environment – as it should. Because of the inherent attention many Italian men take in their wardrobe, a necktie complements their wardrobe and the loss of it as an option, though brief, does not impact the ability to look sharp.

Put simply, when you buy quality clothing, you are making an investment that lasts. By quality, I don’t just mean well-made, I mean a purchase that is also well thought out. When you consciously consider what to buy and carefully edit your wardrobe, you are less likely to make an impulse purchase that will just wind up in a landfill by the end of the year.

Everyday clothing is now relatively cheap and abundant, but there is an enormous price to be paid for such mindless convenience. The environmental costs of sourcing, manufacturing, packaging, transporting, storing, selling, and eventually disposing of these cheap products are large and global.

As opposed to Americans, Europeans tend to be more selective in their clothing choices. Due to higher prices and limited storage space, each piece must be thought out and chosen for its quality, longevity, and versatility.

Does that pair of pants go with more than one outfit? Can you re-sole those shoes? Do you actually need that jacket or another shirt that’s virtually identical to your favorite one? These are all factors you should consider when making any purchase.

Make deliberate choices; don’t buy cheap shoes that you will just throw out when they wear out. The same holds true for tailored clothing. While more expensive than off-the-rack, a well made custom suit will last for years. A classic cut can transcend fashion and a good tailor can make adjustments as your dimensions change over time.

By being selective, you can build a wardrobe that both meets your needs and reduces pointless waste. Which brings me back to the Italians; I have no fear of track pants and tee shirts showing up in Roman offices or flip flops in Milano boardrooms. If anyone can assemble a stylish and absolutely classy “casual” work wardrobe for any weather, it is an Italian.

Ivy League Via London

2010-04-21T12:33:00.012-04:00

If you are trying to track down that perfect Yalie bag, it might be worth looking to the Brits for inspiration.

Smart Turnout's new Yale University Canvas Holdall has a beefy exterior belying a clever blue and white striped silk lining.

While I have not gotten my hands on one yet, Smart Turnout is a longtime friend of OTC and we're pretty sure this bag has the stuff we like. Thick canvas, sturdy leather trim and heavy zippers add substance to its preppy functional coolness.

It looks to be about the right size for an overnight trip up to Boston for The Game or lugging provisions to your buddy's tailgate shindig. Once you've sufficiently beaten it up, I bet this bag would even be a nice Friday office bag.

Striped webbing and leather trim

Silk lined interior in Boola Boola blue and white

Start 'Em Early

2010-04-21T11:24:00.008-04:00

The family OTC recently got together with some friends on a warm Spring evening for a relaxed birthday celebration that included bocce and the random chipping of golf balls.

Add in some Dogfish Head 90 Minute, and it was a nice time indeed.

While we all tried to achieve a certain "lawn party" casual look, no one did it better than my own little BFH. Patchwork madras camp shirt, vintage American work-wear carpenter jeans, and a snappy bucket hat, lost somewhere out on that sprawling lawn.

I never looked that good at his age.

The Spring/Summer Scarf

2010-04-19T01:19:00.008-04:00

So, is the summer scarf fashion or fad?

I’ll try a third option and let’s call it stylish. When I first noticed the trend of men sporting gauzy, lightweight scarves last year, my initial reaction was something to the effect of, “oh, please…”

If it’s warm outside that automatically makes the use of any kind of scarf that of a fashion accessory. And that, my friends, is a recipe for manly disaster.

Except that I’ve actually tried it out and, well, I kind of like it.

When it comes to styles that appear even slightly effeminate, like lightweight scarves in warm weather, American men tend to reflexively run the other way. European guys seem to make such accessories look annoyingly cool and natural.

Though not implying that I hang out at chic street cafes and tool around DC in an Aston Martin Vanquish, I do indeed have two summer scarves, both from Drakes-London, one of the forces promoting this look.

Since Drakes had actually given me my scarves for free I felt an obligation to man up and try them out, and so I did. While obviously impractical for high summer – though lightweight they really do retain heat quite well – for a cool or breezy evening, they are very nice.

And let me just point out that if Michael Drake thinks summer scarves are cool, manly and totally masculine, you best reconsider your opposition. Most of the brand names you encounter on an average trip to your clothier of choice think Michael is about the most stylish guy to tie a tie.

The two scarves pictured in this post, currently available at Drakes-London, are particularly classic, versatile and compatible.

Worn lightly wrapped around the neck or folded and looped in a European fashion, the summer scarf takes on the look of something picked up in Marrakesh or Paris. It has a certain exotic feel to it that is more world traveler than fashion victim.

That said, this kind of nonchalant elegance is a delicate balance. Summer scarves need to have a rich but muted coloring to them, and a classic but unfussy pattern; masculine yet relaxed and un-stuffy. Drakes’ scarves in particular are feather light, extremely malleable and made from some exceptional fabrics.

Washed Linen Blend Madras

Another point, and frankly this is more important, is to not care what anyone else thinks. This is a leap of faith for a lot of men and ultimately if it’s not for you then don’t wear it. It’s a personal look that comes nowhere near American Ivy League, but it is nonetheless a classic, classy look. My wife actually likes the look and, frankly, that surprised me.

But when paired with a light sport coat or blazer it can feel quite natural. In my case, with worn-in khakis and a white oxford, my outfit had that nice thrown together, been-around-the-world look to it.

Brand Repositioning Done Right: Smart Turnout

2010-04-14T12:15:00.007-04:00

How do you reposition a brand that's already successful in your home market for customers across the ocean? Take a page from the playbook of British apparel and accessories retailer Smart Turnout.

OTC has long been an admirer of this creative and authentically English brand. Originally built around jumpers (sweaters to us Americans) executed in British regimental colors, The Smart Turnout brand moved on to outstanding enameled cuff links and regimental ties.

Initially, the company continued with the regimental themes but branched out a bit and produced some American Ivy League inspired ties and cuff links. Throw in some very popular nylon canvas watchstraps and Smart Turnout was on a roll.

But rolling where? The brand was expanding at a very healthy pace in its home market but founder Philip Turner had bigger ideas and wanted to capture the American Market as well. How do you re-brand a distinctly British company for American consumption while offering primarily British/inspired products?

Take a look HERE and find out.

The approach? Reestablish Smart Turnout as a sleeker "city" brand without totally abandoning its "country lifestyle" roots. Build up the brand's storyline by creating an overall brand narrative woven throughout the paper catalog and recently relaunched website (a great one by the way).

Smart Turnout's new look

The result? Increased sales, better name and brand recognition and deeper American market penetration. This strategy also helped to build stronger association with Smart Turnout's British heritage via the new "London" tag line in its name that, paradoxically, helps to establish brand value and exclusivity here in the States.

Overall, a great job of holding on to the core values, quality and uniqueness that made the brand initially successful while thoroughly modernizing everything about it. I think the best compliment is one noted by an OTC reader who told me that he could tell the whole brand had been refreshed and rebuilt, but he could not really pinpoint what was different - it just looked better.

Kennedy's Officially Launches in Rockville - Tomorrow Night

2010-04-13T16:36:00.008-04:00

Kennedy’s All-American Barber Club, the upscale barbershop franchise I recently profiled, will be hosting it’s Rockville, Maryland, Grand Opening and Open House tomorrow, Wednesday, April 14th from 5:00 to 7:00 p.m.

The evening's proceeds will go to benefit the Wounded Warriors Project.

It's going to be a lot of fun; food and beverages will be provided, along with grooming services and tours of the newest Kennedy’s Club located at 110 North Washington Street near the Rockville Town Square (free parking is located at the rear of the building). I plan to swing by myself. Read more about the company here.

Rockville Town Square

Attendees will be able to purchase signature haircut certificates for $25 each and signature haircut and shave certificates for $60 each, with the total proceeds going to support the Wounded Warriors Project.

Kennedy’s CEO, Chris Hurn, said, “We’re excited to launch our first barber club in the Washington, D.C. metro area, while we raise some money for this very worthy cause. Kennedy’s is a patriotic concept, and we’ve always supported veterans’ causes. We'll continue to partner with similar worthy causes as we get the word out in new markets about our exciting concept.”

An Afternoon With Alan Flusser

2010-04-12T12:34:00.016-04:00

If there is one name in the world of menswear that genuinely deserves the overwrought moniker of legend, it's Alan Flusser.

Alan is not just a menswear designer, not just an author, not just an innovator and not just the guy who invented Gordon Gekko's signature look for the movie Wall Street (only one of several movies for which he worked his magic). He is also one of the most well-versed and well-read menswear experts alive today. Flusser is such a close friend of Ralph Lauren, that Lauren asked him to write his biography, which he's currently working on. He's also a very nice guy.

Alan Flusser literally wrote the book on dressing well; more accurately, he wrote the books. When people ask me what they should read to help them learn about dressing well, I typically start off with, "anything by Flusser."

So, it was with thanks to ADG, a longtime friend of Flusser, and genuine excitement that I stopped by the DC office of Alan Flusser Custom. The DC "office" was actually a very nice hotel suite converted to a showroom/salon for Alan's Washington clients. This trip to the nation's Capitol happens four times a year and speaks to the commitment Alan and his team have for their clients.

In between visiting clients and friends, I had the chance to chat with Alan; Mark Rykken, Alan's longtime number two and former head of DC's venerable Britches; and personal clothier Karim Ferrell. Team Flusser exudes a genuine love of clothing and an unwavering assertion that dressing well, dressing to fit your coloration and frame, comfort and personal style matter even more today.

Mark Rykken

Karim Ferrell

Among other things, we discussed the lack of real guidance for many young men who are looking for role models when it comes to dressing. Too often, magazines and celebrities, "style experts" and self-professed consultants focus on ephemera like of-the-moment trends and "looks" that, frankly don't look very good. That's not dressing; it's dressing up like someone else. Flusser knows from dressing well and the reason he knows is because he lives and breathes menswear but he is not locked in the past.

He as an attitude and persona that is forward looking, intellectually aggressive but not rude. There is the Flusser way to dress and that's what you need to buy into when you ask Alan and his team for help with your wardrobe. It's both elegant and casual, formal but witty.

Alan himself was wearing black and white; knowing what colors, patterns and textures work on you the most important thing, he noted. Chalk striped suit, horizontal striped shirt (a Flusser/Gekko signature), solid silk tie, striped grosgrain belt and, almost incongruously, suede driving moccasins sans socks. Natty, personal, assertive but without the "aren't I clever" attitude. It's just how he dresses.

Below are some more shots from the afternoon.

What's Tiger Wearing? It's In The Script.

2010-04-08T14:24:00.007-04:00

Down in Augusta, Georgia, the Master's golf tournament just got underway. While it's one of the world's leading venues for any golfer, this year it's all about Tiger Woods.

I'll bypass the obvious storyline here because I want to point out something else: what Tiger's wearing and why. To the surprise of many, Nike, a keystone sponsor that stuck with the embattled golfer, scripts its athlete's wardrobes.

While the practice of a sponsor dictating athlete's uniforms is standard in team sports like football, soccer and baseball, golf is a purely individual sport. Sure, apparel brands like Nike, Callaway and Ping all sponsor players, but who knew that for Trevor Immelman Saturday is lyon blue body mapping graphic polo day?

No surprise that Nike has this down to a color coordinating science.

About a week ago, Nike sent me a detailed wardrobe schematic, complete with product SKUs, outlining in detail what each of Nike's 11 sponsored athletes will be wearing every day of the tourny. There is a certain amount of leeway when it comes to mixing and matching pieces. But for the most part, the golfers are locked in by contract to wear the desired combo - or at least choose only from an approved apparel grouping.

For example, I knew with a high degree of confidence that today Tiger would be wearing a dark grey DRI-Fit open stripe polo (style# 359363-021), black pants and a black hat. As it turns out, he appears to be sporting tomorrow's white hat and Saturday's lilac frost textured strip polo (#359361-505).

Well, after all, he is still Tiger.

True Prep Advance Teaser

2010-04-06T23:47:00.001-04:00

True Prep Blad

View more documents from Alfred A. Knopf.

Signs of Spring: Preppy Handbook & Lumina Bow Ties

2010-04-06T12:05:00.012-04:00

Well, without a doubt a Spring here in the nation's capitol.

The cherry trees, a gift from the people of Japan to the people of the United States, are blooming across the city and tourists from around the world are flooding in.

Though a little frustrating - please, please stand to the right on escalators - I love seeing how amazed visitors are when walking up to the Capitol or strolling along the White House gates. What I also like, especially after our unusually brutal winter, is that folks are breaking out the Spring wardrobe.

Two items of note on this front; (1) The Preppy Handbook, the tongue-in-cheek arbiter of all things Ivy League, is getting a Part II, and (2) if you like ties, you need to check out a small company from Raleigh, NC, called Lumina.

First, The Book. The New York Times this past Sunday reported - on the front page no less - that Lisa Birnbach is penning a follow-up to the seminal "The Official Preppy Handbook" currently titled "True Prep." For the pink and green cognoscenti, this is huge; a second coming of sorts.

Though intended to be a parody of the WASPy, gin soaked, boat shoe wearing, blue blazer sporting, East Coast lock-jawed social snobs inhabiting the finest prep schools and ivy covered walls of higher learning, it instead became the bible of how to become one.

Great piece from back in the day (thanks to UnabashedlyPrep.com)

The current wave of preppy resurgence has some serious staying power and is still riding high. And this generation of preps has been pining for its own social guidebook on par with the classic TOPH.

As Scott "The Sartorialist" Schuman mentioned to me once, although Americans like to try on other styles - English country and city looks, Italian sprezzatura, French minimal cool - East Coast prep is ours and ours alone. No one does it better and we should be proud of that.

The other preppy classic: Take Ivy

Outside the U.S., preppy/East Coast/Ivy League/American Trad, call it what you will, is the defining style of America. Japan may be the most obsessed when it comes to getting the precise look down pat, but what makes American preppy so enduring is its imperfection and evolutionary nature.

TOPH made my family cool - and I sure can't argue with that. So, be on the lookout for more updates on this genuinely exciting news. With any luck, you'll get to see a sneak peek right here, before it hits the shelves.

Now, on to some preppy wares that you can put to use right now.

Today, I am sporting a bow from the Lumina Clothing Company - a small shop run out of Raleigh, North Carolina. Named after the nearby town of Lumina and founded by a group of tie-loving friends, they make outstanding and unique ties.

As I write this, I am wearing the Something Traditional bow tie (as you can see below). Now, I do like bow ties but don't often wear them. It takes some guts and I have to be in the right mood - but after tying on this one I think I'll be in the mood more often. The construction is outstanding, I love the bright, refreshing design and even the hook and roller hardware is impressive. In disclosure, they sent me this tie as no cost; but for $39.00, it's a darn good deal.

The Something Traditional bow tie

Please take a moment and stop by their site, check out their other bow and neck ties and learn more about this great little company. OTC is always on the lookout for smaller and start-up companies that have a great story and great products - this one has both.

Bruce Boyer on Tailoring

2010-03-31T11:58:00.008-04:00

Recently, we had a vigorous debate on the merits of custom tailoring. Front and center was the very definition of "custom"; did refer only to completely bespoke handcrafting or could one call made-to-measure and its equivalents "custom"?

Jon Green, the noted bespoke clothier and OTC contributor, sent along the following article written by G. Bruce Boyer. As Jon pointed out to me, this argument on the semantics of what is or is not truly custom has been hotly debated for decades and shows no sign of easing.

Quite to the contrary; with one's ability to hop online and order up a (possibly) custom suit of clothes, sports jacket, shirt or even overcoat, the rift between bespoke purists and everyone else has deepened even more.

So, with thanks to Mr. Green and by extension to Mr. Boyer, let's see what the preeminent authority on menswear has to say about this thorny issue.

Personal Best
A Slew of Custom Tailoring Choices Adds Up to One Thing: A Suit to Fit Each Individual
By G. Bruce Boyer

Men used to have but one clothing decision: they bought off-the-rack, from a men's or department store, or had suits custom made by a tailor. Today a panorama of personalized clothing options--bench-made, custom-made, made-to-measure and special order--make the choices wider but a bit confusing.
In an effort to clear things up, let's define the terminology.

The term bench-made generally indicates that clothes are made in a shop that has the tailor's name on the door; further, that he is a master tailor (meaning an expert pattern maker, cutter and fitter). The work is done on the premises, an individual pattern is constructed for the exclusive use of each customer, and there is a maximum of handwork.

Most of the same criteria apply to the term custom-made, except that the work is not always done on the premises, and the name above the door is not always that of a master tailor. More often than not, the head of the establishment is someone--such as a designer--whose reputation is based on his taste and who is capable of providing excellent advice.

"Made-to-measure" clothing differs from bench- or custom-made apparel in that tailors use stock patterns that are modified to fit an individual customer. Construction and fabrics of made-to-measure garments may be of very high quality, but, because no individual pattern has to be created, prices can be considerably less.

"Special-order" suits (which we will not cover beyond this point) are made from unaltered stock patterns, but offer a selection of fabrics stocked by the manufacturer and a choice of two or three basic style models. The customer usually pays a premium of 10 percent. The procedure for the customer is much the same whether the construction is bench-made, custom-made, or made-to-measure. All three processes afford measures of personalization and individuality that are otherwise unavailable.

First, styling--which includes general silhouette and specific details--is discussed. The customer will be asked if he favors a built-up look or a more relaxed one. Italian, English or American interpretations are typical options. Of course, the customer's preferences for fit and feel are also solicited: For example, will the jacket and trousers sit close to the body or have an easier, fuller fit? Does he prefer a higher or lower shoulder? Will the jacket have a soft or firm feel?

The customer chooses the basic form--single- or double-breasted, two-button or three. From there a plethora of details can be ordered. Should the jacket be side, center or unvented? Will the customer prefer flapped, besom, patch or hacking pockets? A ticket pocket perhaps? How many buttons on the sleeve (with working buttonholes, of course)? How many interior pockets? Lapel width or trouser rise may be an issue.

The trousers type must be specified. Will they have pleats or plain front, cuffs or plain bottoms? On-seam or off-seam side pockets, and how many back pockets? A change pocket, a watch pocket? Swelled side seams? Self-supporting waist, belt loops or suspender buttons? Then there is fabric selection. Any reputable shop will have dozens of swatch books from which to choose hundreds and hundreds of cloths--everything from traditional worsteds, flannels and tweeds to the Super woolens (starting with the Super 80s and going up to the 180s), fine silks, cashmeres, cottons, linens and blends. Lightweight fabrics are those considered to be between 7 and 9 1/2 ounces, medium are between 10 and 13 ounces, and anything over 14 is considered heavy in our climate-controlled age. [See Cigar Aficionado, Summer 1995, for a discussion of fabrics.]

Some tailors will have cloths woven exclusively to their own requirements of weight, pattern and color (often their names will be woven into the selvage--the outside strip of the cloth--as proof of exclusivity). Others simply have an eye for that odd bolt of cloth they know their customers will appreciate.

Finally, the tailor will take the measurements. Here's where the best shine: meticulous measurements make for a suit that fits. Which is why a good tailor will leave nothing to chance. He will want to measure the length of each arm and each leg separately, the chest under and over the arms, the waist above the hips and the seat below them. He will want to measure the shoulders from one side to the other (called "point to point"), and each one from the middle of the back. He will measure the length of the coat that the customer is wearing (only as a rough guide).

The tailor will measure a variety of points on your body that you never thought had anything to do with each other. All these numbers will be recorded in the order book. Your fitter will note, in his own shorthand system, any little problems or idiosyncrasies your body might have: "EP" might stand for erect posture, "LLS" for lower left shoulder. But never mind if your neck is like a corkscrew, your calves protruding, or your back like a dowager's hump. A good tailor is part psychologist, part cosmetic surgeon. With a little nip and tuck of the cloth here, a bit of extra padding there, some slight narrowing of the trouser leg or widening of lapel, veritable miracles can be performed. (A practical note: it's a good idea to wear the same sort of shoes and shirt while being fitted as you'll match with the clothes being made, since this makes measurements more relevant to the way you actually wear your clothes.)

Before departing the shop you will be asked to leave perhaps a 50 percent deposit, and be given an assurance that you'll be called in several weeks' time--say three to six--for a fitting. Bench- and custom-made usually require two or three fittings (the first fitting is merely the shell of a garment), while made-to-measure usually requires only one (for minor alterations, button placement and a few minor details).

During the remaining fitting(s) the garment will be fine-tuned, a quarter-inch chalked off in one place, an eighth added in another, a notation made to ease an armhole just a fraction, or minutely tighten the trouser seat. Button stance will be decided. It's a good idea at this fitting to transfer anything you carry in your pockets to your new clothes, so any adjustments for a bulging wallet or eyeglass case can be made.

The suit should now be properly balanced (each part being where it should be, and sitting correctly) and comfortable. The buttonholes can now be cut and buttons attached. After a final hand-pressing, the suit will be shipped. The record of the measurements (in the form of a paper pattern for bench and custom), tailor's notes for alterations, and perhaps a small swatch of the selected fabric will be filed away for future orders. Figure on six to 10 weeks from order to delivery.

Personalized clothing is a true investment. Treated with respect and proper maintenance, it will more than pay for itself. A cheap suit looks cheap even when it's new; a good one looks great even when it's old.

OTC Recommends: Drakes' Untipped Ties

2010-03-24T14:28:00.006-04:00

A favorite friend of Off The Cuff, we like to make a statement with Drakes London. From scarves to ties, whether at work, in business or at a special event Drakes is the embodiment of English style. With a selection excellent handmade ties ranging from knitted to ancient madder, Drakes offers you something for every occasion.

Founded in 1977, Drakes has established itself as one of the leading purveyors of English handmade ties crafted using only the highest quality materials and dyes. Drakes ties are made entirely by hand in the heart of London, drawing on the company's rich artisan heritage of traditional tie making, spanning over 30 years. In sharp Indian silk, textured knitted styles or old-school stripes, a Drakes tie makes a mark of sartorial distinction.

To complete the look of stylish authority, Michael Drake, founder and designer, recommends the four-in-hand or Half Windsor knots. Michael likes to uphold Oscar Wilde's words of wisdom that "a well tied tie is the first serious step in Iife."

Just two of the Spring colors

New this season, Drakes launches the 'untipped tie', a more casual and lightweight spring and summer version. With a slim 7cm width, the new style ties are made from exquisite raw handwoven Indian silk or woven Shantung silk; the blade and tail are left untipped and completed with a hand-rolled finish.

Available in a beautiful selection of Indian Colonial ground colors of oxblood, bottle green, sky blue, tussah brown and Jaipur pink, the untipped ties make the perfect summer accessory for stylish men's attire for any occasion.

My Drakes untipped tie roving the office

Drakes was kind enough to send me one and I have to say, though skeptical at first, I am a convert. I'm wearing it right now and though reminiscent of a thin, "man in the gray flannel suit" era piece of neck wear, this tie is elegantly eclectic.

Indochino: Going Online to Get Custom

2010-03-19T15:17:00.017-04:00

Late last year Kyle Vucko, one of the co-founders of the online custom tailor Indochino, contacted Off The Cuff about reviewing one of their suits. I had heard of the company and read about their innovative business model in the Wall Street Journal. I had also read some other reviews, all of which generally have a positive bent.

After chatting at length with Kyle about the ordering process, reimbursement of follow-up tailoring expenses and their total satisfaction guarantee, I agreed to give it a try.

Indochino donated the suit to OTC, so it cost me nothing; however there still aren't too many places where you get a custom suit for around $400 dollars in less than a week. I chose a navy two-button, notched lapel, single breasted suit with double vents. I also added pick stitching, surgeon cuffs and purple lining.

The suit, yes. Me, no.

The online ordering process is very easy, though it takes longer than you might think to actually take all the measurements - and you definitely need someone to take them for you. In my case it was a very patient wife. If you need help along the way, each step has a short video to walk you through the process. Once you are done, your online profile can be used to speed you through future orders.

The suit arrived very quickly, in less than one week. Given that it was made in Shanghai, that's pretty impressive. I suspected that the likelihood of it fitting perfectly right out of the box was slim, and it turns out I was correct. The collar was way off - the result of a tight fit across the shoulder blades - and the pants' waist too big. I took some pictures and e-mailed them off to the company. After a quick consult with the Indochino tailors a new suit was cut and whisked off to me. The new one is pretty much perfect and I wear is regularly.

Though I have not yet ordered another suit, I can always keep my measurements and preferences up to date in the online profile. While I look forward to the day that I can go to OTC contributor Jon Green for a bespoke suit, I am happy to say that my Indochino suit is very comfortable and regularly garners some darn good compliments.

You should note that their basic cut is clearly modern: shorter jacket, trimmer fit, 18-inch leg openings, narrower lapel. That said, you can alter and tweak pretty much anything to your preference. I am not a 20-something - not even a 30-something anymore; and that is their target demographic. So, I took some time and modified the suit to fit my frame and desired look, and it works on me. Without a doubt, I will be adding to my Indochino wardrobe.

Indochino is not competing with Savile Row or even the Ralph Lauren's of the wardrobing world. For some, these are clearly "starter" suits or fashion suits for the post college crowd. I take a different Instead approach - I think Indochino can make suits cool again for men who like clothes. My suit looks current, yes; but by no means is it overly modern. It is well made and will last for many years in both style and construction. More importantly, I can easily choose, customize and purchase a new suit in a very short amount of time at a very economical price. As a result, to me, my suits are no longer only for important meetings or getting dressed up. They can be a more integral part of my wardrobe.

I can order a couple of casually designed suits as well as several formal models for a relatively modest investment. I can make the suit part of my own signature; with or without a tie, cap toe dressy or Todd's moccasin casual. Indochino opens up interesting new possibilities for men; possibilities that did not previously exist at this price point.

By no means will I abandon my local custom tailor, VM Clothiers; I see them as two very different resources. And Jon Green can sleep easy - he won't lose any clients. But a new door is being wedged open and the Indochino team rightly sees a lot of potential upside.

Wall Street Collection

Having a love of clothing and classic style should never preclude you from going online to track down new options and new resources. Whether it be Rugby.com to design your own custom rugby shirt or Indochino and a new suit from their very sharp and recently launched Wall Street Collection.

Below is a brand new video from Indochino showing how they make their suits - from the initial online order to the finished product heading off to the office. It's very well done - take a look. By the way, the gentlemen you are about to see are not actors, they are Indochino's master tailors, and yes, they really do dress that way every day. You can also find the video on their You Tube channel HERE.

Time to Break out The Polo Shirts

2010-03-18T11:45:00.011-04:00

I think it's safe to say that for generations now, polo shirts have been the cornerstone of a classic warm weather wardrobe. Though when they hear polo shirt most people think “Polo ™” shirt, the first truly branded version was developed in 1929 for tennis legend Rene’ “The Alligator” Lacoste.

Lacoste wanted a comfortable shirt to replace the traditional, but totally impractical dress shirt and tie worn by tennis players at the time. In doing so, he unwittingly produced one of the most versatile garments ever conceived.

With its unique ability to straddle the elusive line between casual and formal, the classic polo can carry you from the office to the country club with little difficulty. While I do not suggest that a knit polo shirt is right for every occasion, when paired with a sharp outfit you should be covered for pretty much anything short of a State Dinner.

The corporate casual look

Pairing a polo shirt with khakis is the traditional choice and usually works just fine for most situations. This looks works equally well with either a worn-in, laid back outfit or your pressed and crisp, off-to-cocktails-on-the-lawn togs.

And unless you are a 15 year-old prep school miscreant, take pass on the overly stylized graphic, patched and logoed polos - they are just not meant for grown-ups. Same goes for the excessively "vintage aged" khakis. When going "nice" casual, keep the overall feel less stuffy with clean boat shoes or penny loafers and a woven leather or ribbon belt.

Classic white polo

A little logo overkill

For a more business look, try a dressy belt with a silver monogrammed buckle, blue blazer and high grade slip-ins from Alden. I’ve occasionally seen a black polo paired with a pinstriped suit; very sharp in a George Clooney sort of way. If you are going to give that a try, opt for a very fine-gauge shirt in a silky finish.

Whatever look you’re trying to achieve, make sure to follow these simple guidelines to always be your best when sporting a polo shirt this summer. First, as always, ensure that the fit is right.

Avoid going too baggy. A trim fit across the shoulders – so the shirt’s shoulder seams actually land on your shoulder – should be your first goal. You don’t want any pulling or bunching, just a natural and comfortable fit. The body of the shirt should lightly touch yours, but not pull or feel tight.

The sleeve should hit somewhere around your mid-bicep and be fitted but not at all constricting. When un-tucked, your shirt should hang no lower than your hips and by no means cover your rear like some kind of mini skirt.

Regardless of how well it fits, when in the office, keep your shirt tucked in.

Even when you’re going for a younger look, say with modern jeans and some vintage shoes, a trim fit will keep everything looking fresh. Many designers have come out with slimmer fitting polo shirts, so make sure you try on several brands and see what feels best. And trim does not mean tight – unless you want it tight of course, which is another look altogether.

He can pull off a really fitted polo

One of the best things about polo shirts is their versatility. They come in almost any color under the sun, from basic white to jet black, solids or preppy stripes. Polo shirts also happen to age very well.

That beat up old polo at the bottom of the shirt drawer - the one with the seriously frayed collar? It will look great at a clam bake with some faded khaki shorts and a stiff gin & tonic.

L.L. Bean Launches Heritage "Signature" Line

2010-03-13T22:32:00.012-05:00

When L.L. Bean decides to create a heritage brand, it’s worth taking notice, and when they bring in Alex Carleton, founder of Rouges Gallery and former Bean design head, as creative director, it’s really worth taking notice.

L.L. Bean Signature Collection is that brand and it launches this Monday.

I spoke with Chris Vickers, L.L. Bean’s vice president for the Signature brand, and he explained the philosophy behind the concept. “We saw a need in the marketplace for an updated style and fit as compared to our current line,” he said. “We wanted to create a slimmer, more tailored fit, add some additional design to the product and offer products that were more versatile- from workday to weekend. We feel many existing Bean customers are looking for this and that we can attract new customers as well.”

He continues, “we hired Alex Carleton, who started Rogues Gallery and had worked for us for a few years prior. Together we decided that instead of looking to the competitors for inspiration, we would instead look at our almost 100 years of outdoor lifestyle history for our inspiration.” Vickers explained that the company is and wants to continue to be an outdoor inspired brand that provides classic American sportswear.

To that end, they are reinstating several items as is from their deep and extensive archives and in several cases, updating patterns, colors and fit to make them more relevant to today. Say Vickers, “we think this grounds us in our design direction and connects us to our past in a very modern way.”

I had a chance to visit the L.L. Bean store at Tyson’s Corner today and checkout the new collection and was really impressed. The “Archived” pieces are literally taken whole-cloth and reissued. The original field coat and shawl collared sweater are favorites of mine.

A Chat About Shirts With Ignatious Joseph

2010-03-12T22:34:00.011-05:00

Ignatious Joseph is not a subtle man. I was on the telephone with him for nearly an hour – me in Washington, D.C., and he in Dusseldorf – and I barely got a word in edgewise. That was fine with me, because he knows how to tell a story, is passionate about his shirts and really knows from shoes.

In fact, as we were speaking he asked if I had Scott “The Sartorialist” Schuman’s book. “Yes,” I replied, and dutifully fetched my copy that Scott was kind enough to sign for me when I interviewed him. Yep – there was Mr. Joseph, resplendent in a bowler hat, elegantly bundled scarf, tailored overcoat and those famous red shoes from his Viennese shoemaker.

The red shoes. "I like red shoes and have many pair, and after a while they became my calling card - it's how people remember me. 'Oh, you are the gentleman with the red shoes!'" He also like to wear his trousers on the short side and absolutely insists that Thom Browne copied him, and I don't doubt him.

The Sartorialist's shot

But what Ignatious Joseph is really know for are his shirts. Based on shirts from the 1930s, when the soft collar swept the menswear world, Mr. Joseph's eponymous brand is coveted by bankers and traders from London to New York, Milan to Brussels. Shirts, and only shirts, are what Ignatius Joseph makes. And he makes some darn good shirts. I’ll be reviewing one myself in the near future, but I can say without reservation that his shirts are both noteworthy and noticeable. His signature soft collar and vibrant color schemes are the Ignatious Joseph calling card.

The philosophy behind the his shirts is simple: they are luxury shirts for everyday wear, or to put it another way, a modern sense of spirit derived from traditional craftsmanship. Ignatious Joseph shirts are what might be called semi-handmade and there is a reason for that.

Every worthy craftsman looks for ways to improve the quality and efficiency of his work methods; think of Jon Greene and his fantastic obsession with bespoke or Michael Drakes and his handmade ties. This shirt maker is no different; not necessarily rich, but absolutely passionate about his craft.

In order to guarantee both consistent quality and value for money, even the best shirt makers have chosen how and when to apply machines. The decision of what to do by hand and what to do by machine has to be taken with a view to the product as a whole, based on the skill and experience of the master shirt maker; it’s a blend of economics and craft.

Mr. Joseph’s shirts are made by shirt makers, primarily family businesses, who have refined and improved their craft over generations. "In order to produce shirts of the highest quality, and which are still affordable - meaning that there is a realistic margin for manufacturer and retailer - the critical tasks of cutting the shirts and sewing the non-fused collars are performed entirely by hand," he says. Meanwhile the shirt’s torso is sewn by machine.

Non-fused collars are the trademark of the Ignatious Joseph shirt and it’s worth noting here that many high-end “handmade” shirts do not have hand sewn collars. This is mostly because of the expense and skill needed for such detailed work.

As far as he is concerned, every one of Ignatious Joseph’s shirt should be of the same high quality. This is only possible when each step of the shirt's production is performed using the most appropriate method by experts in their craft. As he likes to say, “the whole product is made not only by hand but with brains.”

Sold in more than 80 stores around the world, 35 in the United States, Ignatius Joseph's shirts may take a little effort to track down but, as he told me, "you won't be walking ugly in the streets."

Jon Green: What Bespoke Means

2010-03-07T22:02:00.011-05:00

OTC is honored to welcome guest contributor Jon Green. Jon is best known as one of the finest bespoke clothiers to be found anywhere. Jon is also a remarkable teacher, formally trained musician and a stellar arbiter of sartorial wisdom. We are more than happy to call him a friend.

There are those who believe that to be a credible custom clothier one must actually be a tailor and make the clothing. It recently occurred to me that what I do with my bespoke clothing business is much like what I did, and sometimes still do, as a conductor.

Although the vast majority of conductors play at least one orchestral instrument and/or compose music, (I am a pianist, a singer, a percussionist, and an orchestrator and arranger by training and experience), the conductor usually does not compose the piece or make the sound.

The conductor’s responsibility is for those who do produce the sound. In the aforementioned assessment the fact that I am not a tailor misses the point. My understanding of patterns, pattern making, how garments should be made, fit, and look, offers benefits for my clients that complement and enhance the efforts of the person who actually cuts and makes the garment.

To me it is impossible to be a great craftsman responsible for making the clothes and a ‘front’ man responsible for sales, marketing, and administration. Artisan craftsmen have very special skills, but they are not all encompassing. However, there persists a tradition in New York of custom tailors who “do it all.”

A Jon Green Suit in Process

That tradition, it would seem, developed after WWII following the immigration to the U.S., specifically to New York, of European tailors, many of them Italians. At that time in Europe, most men wore suits every day (there was no sportswear) and young men in Italian villages apprenticed to a tailor at age 8 or 9, as one told me, to keep him off the street and out of trouble after school. (He understood then that his choices were to be a tailor, a butcher, a barber, or a mobster.)

Nino Corvato, an Italian-American New York tailor featured in the documentary film “Men of the Cloth” said, “It is impossible to train young tailors in the States. When young people come to me to learn tailoring after they have completed their basic education at 18, they have adult responsibilities and expenses and cannot make enough money to live on in NY as an apprentice.” I would add that, like an instrumentalist, if it is “not in the fingers” at age 14 it is too late for a major career.

In the global economy of today many of my clients require an international look that functions well wherever they go around the world; others want something more personal, or both. The background of an artisan tailor does not usually provide the breadth of expertise to be of use to these clients. My clients depend on me to coach them and to make for them what they want and need.

The Finished Lapel

In a recent advertisement for a museum show in New York featuring the work of Leonardo da Vinci, the headline “Genius is Timeless” reminded me of what many call the ‘timelessness’ of our look.

If there is genius in what we do, it shows up in our clothes. We respect what our clients want their clothing to be for them. In distinguishing what they have not distinguished for themselves, we collaborate in the creation a personal expression that functions so well that it does not become dated. Fashion is fleeting, but (individual) style is for life.

J.Crew + Monocle = Perfect Fit

2010-03-01T17:33:00.010-05:00

The crew from Monocle, one of OTC's favorite global culture magazines, has joined forces with J. Crew, one of OTC's favorite menswear labels.

In the latest issue of J. Crew's catalog, Monocle's editor-in-chief Tyler Brûlé and several of his editors and staff are seen in Monocle's London offices, styled through the eyes of J. Crew.

It seems that Brûlé and J.Crew CEO Mickey Drexler have know each other for years, so the collaboration - and Monocle is the master of pitch-perfect collaborations - is, well perfect. The outfits chosen by J.Crew's sylists seem to fit each man just so, highlighting, or least alluding to, some defining aspect of their personality.

Though J. Crew has done several of these "real people" mash-ups, this one is particularly inspired because Monocle represents two key elements that fit well in J. Crew's world - and visa versa. Monocle endorses the benefits of creative societal impact, something J.Crew has pioneered with its increasing emphasis on the "craft" aspects of it's Men's offerings. And the magazine also champions the importance of unique, independent brands, again, something that J.Crew has successfully married to it's own giant corporate brand.

Monocle's Tyler Brûlé

Check out the Monocle/J.Crew collaboration HERE. And always make sure to visit Monocle's exceptional website and its daily Monocolumn. If you are an iPhone devotee like me (or Blackberry, one of Monocle's collaborators), I also heartily endorse the Monocle weekly podcast.

Jack's New Bag, Courtesy of Ralph Lauren

2010-02-24T10:20:00.009-05:00

As most of OTC's readers know, I am a bag guy. I commute to work by train, which of course necessitates a good bag, but I also have a thing about carrying too much stuff on my person.

The search for the elusive perfect guy bag has been, and continues to be, a mission of mine. I have had some successes - Jack Spade's Canvas Day Bag is a great option, as is Ghurka's classic and pricey Examiner.

I have also written on the most famous of all man bags, Indiana Jones' modified British Mark VII gas mask bag.

Jack Bauer (Keifer Sutherland), of the television show "24", has done a lot to bring the man bag back to the forefront. The original "Jack sack", as Bauer's varying bags came to be called, became a cult hit. Inexpensive and readily available, it's also a great bag in real life; roomy, good pockets, durable and classically functional looking.

The original Jack Sack

I received a number of requests to track down the identity of the current season-eight bag. This one is leather and a bit more fancy than Jack's typical military inspired bags. So, I went strait to the 24-obsessed experts at The Jack Sack and now have the answer. It's from Ralph Lauren.

Season 8's bag of choice

The bag is the Double RL leather Mail Bag and based on the classic American letter carrier bag. Only a few months ago I had this very same bag in my hand while on a visit to the Ralph Lauren store in Georgetown. I really liked it, but at nearly $900, I gave it a pass.

Ralph Lauren also makes a more elegant version of the bag in the form of their Deerfield Leather mail bag, but that one is priced around $1,200. The leather on this one, however, is amazing.

Ralph Lauren's Deerfield

The original reinterpretation of this iconic work satchel was made by J. Peterman and is still available at less painful $300. A few years ago I tested this bag, a gift to me from John Peterman, and it's still one of my all-time favorites.

The Third Place: Kennedy's All-American Barbershop

2010-02-19T17:01:00.008-05:00

Whatever happened to the barber shop? The kind of place guys went to – not a salon, not a day spa, just a good old barber. Instinctively, men do know about these things, because real barber shops are guy places.

They have a certain smell, a certain feel; other guys hanging out before or after a shave and a haircut. Ultimately, they are a sort of a grown up clubhouse. It's not home, not the office - it's the "third place."

Think of Al Capone in the opening of the classic movie “Untouchables.” He was not getting an avocado and pear facial; he was getting the hot towel treatment prior to a straight edge shave. And he was wearing a tie. That’s what guys do.

Kennedy’s All-American Barber Club is all about that. It’s a place for guys that both harkens back to the local barber shop, but also infuses that model with a more modern flair – a lounge with flat screen TV, it’s own branded magazine and depending on the franchisee, a host of inspired layouts.

Yes, Kennedy’s is a franchise; surprising to some, but wholly logical to Chris Hurn. Chris is the CEO of Mercantile Capital Corporation, the parent company of Kennedy’s and entrepreneur extraordinaire. While that corporate framework takes some of the wind out Kennedy’s small-town nostalgic sails, Hurn is genuine when it comes to what Kennedy’s means for men. He want's to see Kennedy's everywhere, not only because it's great for business, but also because he wants men to get back to being men.

Chris Hurn (3rd from right) and the Kennedy's crew

Chris Hurn recently sat down with OTC and we chatted about Kennedy’s, haircuts and men’s clubs. Hurn is a self described serial entrepreneur and came across Kennedy’s predecessor in the new urbanist town of Celebration Florida.

A couple of British guys had developed and executed a membership-based version of an American barber shop, but its business model was sorely lacking. Hurn, who as a member himself, saw enormous potential and offered to by them out. After a two year process, the deal was closed and Hurn had his newest company.

Hurn told me that he liked the idea of a membership-based operation, which is a great franchise model. While anyone can walk in and get a haircut or shave, members are afforded various all-inclusive packages based on their tier of membership – unlimited haircuts or straight razor shaves, shoe shines and, at some locations, massages.

The target audience is the mass-affluent guy pulling in around $75,000, who sees this as a well-deserved treat to himself. It's a small but regular luxury that lets him relax and hang out with other guys.

“It’s a men’s club that happens to cut hair and give shaves, “Hurn said.

And the shave part of that equation is no small matter. Most states regulate who can actually give a straight razor shave; some don’t even allow them. Shaving in this manner is akin to an art form that only experience can provide.

In Maryland, for example, only certified Master Barbers can use a straight razor. After fine tuning the model, Kennedy’s was re-launched in August of 2008 and business is going strong. Currently, there are eight locations with several more coming on line in the immediate future. My location, in Rockville, Maryland, is number seven.

Owners Dave Gagner and Jeff Bochner invited me in for a complimentary shave and haircut which I promptly accepted (it had been a least a month, so the timing was perfect.) While their location, then open only a few months, was still a work in progress, the vision was obvious: your grandfather’s barber shop updated for today – along with complementary coffee, bottled water, soda, snacks.

At some shops you can even kick back with a nice cold beer. As Jeff told me, each franchisee works off a standard floor plan template based on the footprint of their space. However, there is enormous flexibility limited only by zoning regulations. Some owners expand their lounge areas into full-blown private club type spaces – one franchisee is even planning to include a full service bar.

In Jeff’s case, as an entrepreneur himself, he and his business partner opted to relocate their own offices into the shop’s space and construct a separate boardroom that is available for member’s to use. This means that members can hold meetings and receive clients at their “club.” It’s a great selling point, member benefit and marketing tool.

My haircut and shave were excellent and the experience relaxing. I have to say, that shave is reason enough to come back – I nice old school neck massage helped round it out. In fact, I’ll probably join and take advantage of those unlimited shaves and haircuts.

Kennedy’s is moving full speed into the lifestyle/branding market, as one would expect from a guy who created a rather massive holding company based on entrepreneurship and franchising. Kennedy’s branded grooming products just launched and should be filling the shelved of a location near you and they already have their own in-house magazine - a good one at that.

OTC Exclusive: Jon Green

2010-02-08T22:44:00.019-05:00

Jon Green loves to talk about clothing. Actually, he just loves clothing. In fact, I would suggest that Jon is obsessed with clothing and given his profession, that's definitely a good thing.

As one of New York’s finest bespoke clothiers, if not the country’s, Jon Green is privy to the wants, demands, preferences, problems and personal trivialities of some of the wealthiest people in the world.

I try not to throw around such dramatic language too often, but in Jon’s case it is simply the truth. Jon’s suits start off at about $7,500 and go straight up from there. Add in some of the more luxurious and rare fabrics to which he has access and you’re looking at something touching $25,000.

Jon Green

Had you asked me a few weeks ago what I thought about dropping the cost of a new car on a single suit, I probably would have said something both unflattering and dismissive. Not only is that a lot of money, what possibly could go into any garment which warrants such a ridiculously high expense?

Then, as fate would have it, I was recently invited by Mr. Green to visit him while on a trip to New York. Let me just cut to the chase: I’ve drunk the Kool-Aid and joined the church of bespoke.

Past the deceiving simple paper sign on the building's front door, the elevator took me up to an elegant salon and tailor's workshop. It is a place of business but also of consul; a comfortable lounge filled with mannequin forms sporting suit jackets in various stages of completion and bookcases filled with fabric books. Up front is the tailor's workshop fronted by a bank of large windows overlooking Madison Avenue and capturing all the natural light.

Jon won me over without even trying. Unfortunately, I won’t be wearing a Jon Green suit anytime soon, but that’s not remotely the point. The world of bespoke – certainly at this level – changes how you think about clothes. As Jon noted, "The price of what we do is directly related to our costs of cloth, workmanship, location and the one-on-one personal attention we prefer to provide our clients. This includes the requisite number of fittings needed to 'get it right,' not just 'get it out the door.' The real value in bespoke clothing is enhanced by taking the time to get it as good as it can be. But then forgetting about it. After all, it is possible to polish a diamond to dust."

As an added bonus, I visited Jon at the same time as Dougal Munro and Malcolm Campbell from Holland & Sherry, the Rolls Royce of fabric makers. Dougal is the president of H&S's North American operation and Malcolm is Managing Director of Joseph H. Clissold, H&S's premier fabric mill. Our discussion about English fabrics, their role in the world of bespoke, and H&S's remarkable innovations was fascinating and one that a that I will document separately, along with some excellent H&S material covering fabric education and the impact of color on one’s wardrobe.

Malcolm Campbell (t), Dougal Munro (b)

A formally trained musician and clothing salesman, Jon is every inch the courtly clothier. He is not, however, a “yes man” arbiter to wealthy power players. As he said to me regarding a client whose requests were not representative of a Jon Green suit, “it's my suit until I hand it over to him.” Translation: we’ll work it out, but I have a reputation to uphold and there is an expectation of what a Jon Green suit means. No animosity, simply a standard of excellence and detail that is not quickly, or easily, bent.

However, Jon rarely needs to take such a stand. His clients are lovers of clothing and dress for themselves. They come to Jon because he is the best and that is what they want; they have found a friend and confidant who will do anything in his power to meet their needs and will also not hesitate to gently redirect an errant choice in fabric or customization.

As he explained on several occasions, Jon is not a tailor - he is a clothier. While the tailor with whom he works is clearly one of the finest, Jon brings to the engagement the vision and execution of a head coach or chief strategist. He has created a brand known to those for whom exceptional service, privacy and collaboration are paramount.

Jon is, at heart, a teacher. While we never really discussed the cost of his clothing (honestly, it just slipped my mind), he indirectly explained why his suits cost so much. Every inch of a Jon Green suit is hand cut and assembled. Pockets are fully fitted into the canvas body which itself is carefully formed to your body’s curves.

The entire jacket is basted until the final assembly – no finishing stitches anywhere. This means that throughout your initial fittings, often six, the suit is completely disassembled and re-cut to match your evolving pattern. And your pattern, hand drawn by the way, is hand updated by the tailor at each step. It will take months and once completed will fit you as well as humanly possible.

Will it be perfect, probably not to Jon. But that is part of the beauty of bespoke – it is hand crafting in every sense of the phrase, not a single shortcut or prefabricated piece of anything. And all that hand stitching! That alone is worth half the cost right there.

Overall, the entire process is so laborious and detailed that I can only describe it as art. Jon and I could have talked for hours; he’s a fascinating and incredibly knowledgeable man.

Jon has been selected to by Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessey North America, as part of a celebration of American craftsman, to create a bespoke suit for its chairman, Renaud Dutreil. I’ll be updating you on this remarkable process as it moves along, the only menswear blog to have such remarkable access.

Msr. Renaud Dutreil

I am also happy to say that I’ll be working with Jon to periodically bring OTC’s readers the kind of insight and expertise normally reserved for captains of industry and the kind of men who hop thier private jet from Houston just to do a suit fitting. Jon is a wealth of information and OTC is both honored, and a little humbled, to call him a friend.

Stay tuned…

Cool Weather Style: The Rumpled Look

2010-01-27T19:30:00.007-05:00

To my mind, the cooler months are to men always the kindest when it comes to getting dressed in the morning. That's when we get to pull out the fun clothes and really take advantage of the many options that make classic menswear great. We get to layer.

I'm talking about stuff like chunky longwings, cords and a well worn jacket, topped it off with a warm cashmere scarf. The sheer variety of cold weather clothing is something many guys look to as the temperature drops.

For those of us with the flexibility to move between business dress and corporate casual, something I call the “Rumpled Look” is a nice middle alternative to being strictly dressed up or dressed down. Originally an offshoot of the American Preppy aesthetic, the rumpled look has come into its own. It's not an attempt to be sloppy, instead it is an homage to worn in classic comfort.

The basic idea behind this look is the allusion to old money, classic taste, and timeless style. Newer or continental styles don’t lend themselves to celebrating beat up and handed down clothes quite like the preppy culture does. The unspoken message of the slouchy khakis, un-ironed oxford shirt and slightly beat up shoes is that you have old money, an Ivy League education, a summerhouse in the Hamptons, and you sail a lot.

Or at least you dress like you do.

Lapo: Master of the Stylish Rumple

This really is a fun look which is not hard to carry off well as long as you don’t try too hard. It's sort of the antithesis to the recent “critter” trend, which left every inch of pants, ties, belts and coats adorned with embroidered animals and icons of every sort – from dogs to martini glasses. Instead of sartorially hitting people over the head with your East Coast airs, stick to a less-is-more aesthetic. One creative article of clothing at a time is nicely ironic, more is overkill.

Simple but Classic

For most men, wearing this look at the office can be a bit tough, but depending on your company’s culture, distressed chinos matched up with an un-ironed button down under a crew neck sweater should be just fine. For a younger look, don’t tuck in the shirt but rather let it hang out under the sweater - just make sure to choose a short bodied shirt. I've found that J. Crew button-downs are often just right. Wear a washed tweed jacket over the whole outfit. This kind of layering effect is another signature of the rumpled look.

Additionally, make sure to opt for clothes that actually fit well. The rumpled look is not an excuse to go baggy or oversized, it is more of a toned down and worn-in take on being well dressed.

Uncomplicated but still Detailed

One of the best things about this type of style is that you can effectively mix high and low to meet int he middle. For example, to meet up with friends for drinks, try pairing a permanently wrinkled (read, make a point of not ironing it) Thomas Pink dress shirt with dark but worn-in jeans and a sport coat. The juxtaposition of classic and casual is a key balance to this look.

Like any other style you want to incorporate into your own, stop and look in the mirror before leaving the house. What's most important is that you are happy with the overall feel and proportion of your outfit. The goal should be to look like you’ve had everything for years and don’t think twice about getting dressed.

Cifonelli House: Bespoke in the 21st Century (Part II)

2010-01-19T13:52:00.014-05:00

OTC is pleased to present the second of three contributions by guest blogger Hugo Jacomet of the outstanding site Parisian Gentleman. To read Part I, please click here:

INTERVIEW WITH LORENZO CIFONELLI

Parisian Gentleman:
In 2003, you and your cousin Massimo took control of the family business after starting in the workshop in 1993. Have your customers changed over the years?

Lorenzo Cifonelli:
Of course. When I started my career in the family workshop, we were known as a classic, serious, discrete, almost confidential house. At that time most of our clients were 50 year olds who dressed in bespoke, whether because of family traditions of because of their body shape.

Back then, we made a lot of suits, but we had much fewer clients. For instance, we often made 10 or 15 suits for one single order. Nowadays, even though we still have a few very loyal clients who order several suits, our clientele is much more diverse in terms of age and income.

PG:
Who are these new clients?

LC:
They have been getting younger every year. They don’t choose bespoke out of necessity or because they can afford to, but because they want to. By the way, 80% of our clients could easily go with ready-to-wear.

Unlike our traditional clientele, our new clients are around their 40s and only order a few pieces every year. However, they are much more demanding in terms of sartorial awareness and education.

Some guys in their 30s even come to us for their first bespoke suit. Very early on, these guys are trying to create their personal style and venture into bespoke very thoughtfully. Their demands in terms of style and customization cannot be compared with what we have seen in the '90s.

PG:
Do you think this new and different type of clientele emerged from a natural market trend or was it more directly triggered by Cifonelli being open to a more contemporary style?

LC:
There really is a trend for customization and gentlemen are more and more aware of all aspects of personal style.

However, I think that the progressive decline in our clients’ average age has more to do with us becoming more open to bolder and more modern lines, and more aware of the new needs of modern gents.

When my cousin and I took the business, we started to travel a lot to expand our client base in Japan, the United-States and in some European countries. Neither of us were 35 at the time. At that age, you’re always more sensitive to trends and, most importantly, to the needs of your new clients. They are demanding, always on the go, and not willing to compromise on elegance, no matter how, when and where they wear their suits.

This is how we gradually modified the cuts and the lines without touching the fundamental elements of our reputation: quality and precision. Unlike trends, some things don’t change and cannot be compromised, like an impeccable line. The only way to get perfection is through bespoke and traditional stitching. Trends come and go, but the line remains.

PG:
Style often aficionados wax poetically of the Cifonelli line. Is it a product of your Italian background?

LC:
I think that the Cifonelli style is original because it was born out of the best elements of three sartorial traditions:

Italian tradition of course, with a strong accent on style, flowing lines and softness (sometimes at the expense of quality of assembly)
British tradition, with its military heritage that inspires its very structured design (at the possible expense of comfort)
French tradition, including Claude Rousseau whose career ended with us and who contributes another aspect: precise detailing, quality finish, topstitching, arrowheads, buttonholes…

I think Cifonelli has, from the start, been successful in bringing forward a very original blend of the best aspect of the three approaches to masculine style. My grandfather was trained in cutting in England at the beginning of the century.

Very quickly, he learned how to blend the British technique and his Italian sensitivity. Soon after he moved to France, he added a French touch to his style, and the Cifonelli signature style was born. By the way, we still take all the measures in inches.

PG:
Let’s get into details. Part of the Cifonelli signature is the shoulder. Karl Lagerfeld says he can recognize it 100 meters away…

LC:
Without going into details, we didn’t even know about Karl Lagerfeld recognizing our shoulder before an American client told us about it. He had read it in a newspaper in the United States; without him, we never would have known of this “tribute” that was widely relayed in the media.

It is true that the shoulder is very important to us and that ours is quite particular. It is very bold and forward, to streamline the silhouette without losing the masculine and manly aspect.
To make this type of shoulder, we have to use our own construction technique, that we have been using for decades (the sleeve is wet-felted with an iron before stitching, editor's note). Although it is the most famous hallmark, there is a lot more to the Cifonelli style.

Our suits have a rather small chest, and the jackets are cut smaller at the front than at the back. The line is always our ultimate priority. It must streamline the body and be very masculine. Details and finish are equally important: we always stitch the buttonholes with Milanese rolled thread (difficult to use) and we are also quite particular about lapels: we position the notches quite high.

But remember that all these details are linked to our clients’ body shape and that the Cifonelli style is first and foremost about listening, seeing and talking to those who give us the wonderful mission of making them as elegant as possible. We may have our own style, but let’s never forget that we are traditional tailors first.

PG:
What piece are you most proud of?

LC:
I can’t think of one in particular. In our line of work, pride has everything to do with our clients being 100% satisfied.
Right now our 35 workers (editor’s note: the largest bespoke team in France) on Rue Marbeuf make about 800 suits every year. Our clientele is a lot more diverse than it used to be. For a bespoke house, every suit is a creation in and of itself, because we continually pursue the ideal of the perfect line.

So I can’t tell you which suit is the best. It’s not about the most beautiful suit, because succeeding in making the most beautiful suit to date is a must for any tailor worth his salt. However we recently developed a line of very original sport jackets that have brought us a completely new clientele which is more open to bolder pieces.

PG:
In 2007, you reopened the store below the bespoke workshop on rue Marbeuf. It offers traditional ready-to-wear and made-to-measure. What prompted this decision and what makes it offering so special?

LC:
The idea of renovating and reopening the store was simple: to access a broader clientele and offer high quality traditional pieces at quality-based prices.

Even though, of course, it’s not bespoke, it is the same Cifonelli quality and the standards are just as high. We draft the patterns for suits and coats that are then assembled in Parma in an excellent traditional workshop.

The close proximity of the boutique and the bespoke workshop gives our clients access to a wide array of fabrics and offers them very qualitative alterations and finish that meets our standards and that are in line with the quality that made us famous. So for about 2,000 euros, they can get a quality traditional suit and get a taste of the Cifonelli experience.

We are also seeing a connection between the boutique and the bespoke workshop. Some clients move on to bespoke from our high-end RTW line. So there is a genuine consistency in the approach, even if the two client bases remain fairly different. It takes money to move up to bespoke but more importantly, you need a lot of patience… a rare quality in the 21st Century!

PG:
We know you are a star in Japan: it’s an event whenever you go! Do you have any other overseas project?

LC:
We now have a worldwide (Japan, United States, Europe) bespoke client base. We achieved this through a very simple model: I go to some countries, Massimo to others, and we measure and do the fittings.

Also, in the last few years, we’ve been working very successfully in Japan with Isetan, a top luxury Japanese chain, in which we have several corners.The Japanese are very educated on masculine elegance. And it seems that the most demanding Japanese gentlemen love our label.

This success has made us consider the possibility of setting up a bespoke workshop in Japan. We would manage it ourselves from Paris (through a very precise remote photography system). The suits would be assembled on site by a team under our supervision. It is still just a project, but chances to make it happen are good because of the very high quality of our Japanese partners.

In the United States, we have been working for quite a while on a very original project, among others, in a Manhattan apartment. I hope to be able to keep you posted on it during the upcoming months.

Because of the increasing international media attention on our brand (Vogue, The Rake, GQ, Monsieur, Uomo Japan, Men’s Ex), we are also thinking about ways of improving.

OTC Recommends: Viccel Socks

2010-01-13T23:45:00.011-05:00

I tend to get a lot of e-mails from vendors touting their products and advising me that they have the perfect whatever-it-is for the OTC reader.

While there are a number of brands that have earned the OTC seal of endorsement, far more than you will ever know never made it past my desk. When Kemal from Viccel Socks first contacted me I was not sure what to expect. And when a short while later and red celphane wrapped brick of socks arrived at my door, I was ready for anything. As it turns out their focus is not on packaging, it's on making socks, and they make some damn good ones at that. (That being said, it wouldn't hurt to spruce up your product presentation a bit.)

At first glance, Viccel socks do not possess the flair and lifestyle marketing qualities that attract attention; and that is its hidden advantage. Because Viccel makes some great dress socks, in fact some of the most comfortable I've worn. They were kind enough to send me a selection of mid-calf and over the calf socks and I've been testing them out for a few weeks.

One of Viccel's big selling points is that, apart form a small amount of elastine in the ribbing at the top of the sock, they are 100% American mercerized pima cotton - absolutely no synthetics. this means that that socks breath much better than nylon-laced hosiery and naturally whisk moisture away from the foot. Even the elastine is separated from your skin as it is wrapped inside the cotton fibers.

Another hallmark of this Turkish company are the intensely vivid colors imparted by their Indantherene dyes, which is not affected by perspiration, meaning that under even the most rigorous use, these socks keep their original color. Indantherene dyes are also resistant to light, washing and chlorine. The bright red and pink socks they sent along will keep their colors for a long time - I just have to find the guts to wear them.

So, how did they do? Wonderfully. I especially like the over-the-calf socks and will definitely be getting more of those. The mid-calf length socks are just fine, though in my case they don't stay up quite as well. I wear them, and certainly recommend them, but if it's business socks you're looking for, the over-the-calfs are outstanding.

Viccel has a special offer for Off The Cuff readers: a 20% discount off their already reasonable prices. Please use THIS LINK to ensure that you receive the OTC discount.

Arctic Diver Auction All Wrapped Up

2010-01-10T22:46:00.010-05:00

Well, that's a wrap! Thanks to everyone who helped spread the word about OTC's Kobold watch auction to benefit The Mission Continues, and thanks to those of you who bid.

Our winner, who is actually picking up the 46mm Arctic Diver Swiss from Mike himself, won out at nearly $2,100.00, even donating the now-unneeded shipping fee too. A class act guy.

Just to remind everyone, 100% of the proceeds from the auction went directly to The Mission Continues. Thanks to Mike Kobold for donating the watch and accessories, ensuring that this auction could even take place and to Eric Greitens, founder of The Mission Continues.

And a special note of thanks to Hodinkee which posted a very nice article about the auction and even sent out a couple of tweets to help drum up interest - thanks Jeff! And while you're at it, check out Kobold's completely new website, it looks awesome.

Cifonelli: Bespoke in the 21st Century (Part I)

2010-01-08T15:15:00.014-05:00

Off The Cuff is honored to welcome Hugo Jacomet, founder of the incredibly stylish blog Parisian Gentleman, to the States.

Hugo will be an occasional guest contributor here at OTC and I will likewise offer the men of Paris OTC's modern take on Ivy League East Coast classics.

So, without further ado...

There is no doubt that legendary tailor Cifonelli has an exceptional story to tell. There are two main reasons why this family business is so unique – really the only one of its kind.

First, there is the unique style of their creations (and creations they are: client after client, suit after suit). Each one displays a unique blend of typically British strictness and Italian creativity, topped with a quality of finish à la française. Such “fusion”, unique in the sartorial art world, is in the DNA of this traditional label whose style is far more eclectic than its name at first glance would suggest.

Then, there is the family history of a house still 100% in the (expert) hands of its 4th generation, steering the company through its transformation from confidential bespoke workshop for insiders into world class luxury brand. The family has accomplished the feat of passing on its savoir-faire to next generations without giving in to big luxury conglomerates. The family has also resisted the temptation to promote (or bank on?) its famous name through mass distribution, unlike what is done by some tailors of the Row, such as Henry Poole expanding in China and beyond.

One might suggest that the “marketing of tradition” has become essential for any enterprise with a specific know-how. Several tailoring houses have a narrative that tells of a savoir-faire passed down from distant generations. Dozens of label names end with the very popular “& Sons” while an increasing number seems to have been “founded in 1860”, a historical claim that can go unchallenged. Let’s just make it clear that Norton’s son doesn’t work for Norton & Sons and that there are no Andersons or Sheppards cutting for Anderson & Sheppard.

Let’s take another example from Italy: Domenico Caraceni founded the famous Caraceni house in Rome in 1913. Then conflict tore the next generation and brought the family to the absurd point that it has reached today. Brace yourself: aside from the (small) original shop that is still up and running in Rome, there are no less than three Caraceni shops (held by “dissident” Caracenis) posing as the “real” Caraceni house. Insiders say that it is the A. Caraceni shop, owned by Mario (Domenico’s nephew) in Milan, which is the truest to the family heritage. Complicated, isn’t it?

The Cifonelli family history reads like an epic saga, resembling few others, especially in the second decade of the 21st century. Unlike families we’ve already talked about, the Cifonellis preserved their history and passed it down from one generation to the next. Hence, the Cifonelli house might have become the only bespoke house in the world where you will always be greeted by a family member. Say hello to Lorenzo and Massimo, 4th generation Cifonellis, a name that goes hand in hand with the art of being a tailor.

The house was founded (for real!) in 1880 by Giuseppe Cifonelli, who first set up his workshop in Rome. His son, Arturo, expanded the business and will forever remain the soul of the style and the true artist of Cifonelli.

Very soon, Arturo was sent by his father to London to be trained in the art of cutting at the very proper “Minister’s Cutting Academy”. His diploma is dearly held in the shop rue Marbeuf (pictured below).

The Cifonelli style, a clever blend of British strictness and beautiful Italian lines, is shaped and developed by Arturo in his first Paris workshop. One opened in 1926 on Rue Courcelles and the second, still standing at the center of Paris’ golden triangle, was inaugurated in 1936 at 31 rue Marbeuf.

Slowly, Arturo began to gather a client base of demanding and elegant connoisseurs. His excellent reputation grew as more and more famous politicians and artists start wearing his amazing bespoke suits. Arturo was often described as demanding, uncompromising and passionate. He was both loved and feared by his workers who, legend has it, made the sign of the cross before sending him a suit for final inspection. If he didn’t like it, it could be cut all over again and started from scratch…

When Arturo died in 1972, his son Adriano took over and carried on developing his father’s work until the beginning of 2000. The Cifonelli reputation slowly started to spread outside of the closed circle of stylish and wealthy gents. True, the most famous ambassadors for Cifonelli always had quite a bit of panache: Paul Meurisse, Lino Ventura, Marcello Mastroianni and, most importantly, François Mitterrand (whose Cifonelli collection was recently auctioned at Druot). Notably, between 1992 and 2007, the Cifonellis also made all the bespoke suits for Hermes (1992-2007).

In the early 1990s, Lorenzo (Adriano’s son) and Massimo (Lorenzo’s cousin) truly enter the business, after spending their youth around bundles of fabrics, pattern paper embossed with luxury stamps, watching workers hand stitch most utterly perfect Milanese button holes.

In 2003, the two cousins officially took control of the bespoke workshop at rue Marbeuf. In 2007, they developed an exacting made-to-measure line and opened a RTW storefront right below the original workshop.

At that time, two important events proved the Cifonelli commitment to perpetuating their sartorial expertise; such skill had been put under considerable threat in other labels (including on the Row). This threat was brought on by an aging workforce (on Saville Row, über specialized workers can be much older than 75).

The first of these two important events occurred in 2000 when Cifonelli acquired Claude Rousseau’s workshop (and its workers). The second was the 2008 purchase of another famous Parisian tailor’s shop and staff, Gabriel Gonzalez. If you are familiar with the small world of (very) high level bespoke houses, you understand the importance of these acquisitions, that successfully brought back together, under the Cifonelli impetus, the legendary Camps de Luca team, 30 years later after its separation (when Mr. Camps was at the helm). Back then, the team had Smalto, Rousseau and Gonzalez on board. Talk about a dream team!

Lorenzo credits Claude Rousseau, who has since retired, for teaching him the extreme art of detail and an obsessive care for finish. Gabriel Gonzalez still works on rue Marbeuf, as passionate as ever about tailoring despite being 72 years old.

Parisian Gentleman was delighted to be welcomed into the Marbeuf workshop. In the next installment you will be able to read our long interview with Lorenzo Cifonelli, who talked about the Cifonelli style (and its famous shoulder), of its obviously renewed clientele, of development projects for Japan and the United states.

Everything you always wanted to know without daring to ask on this amazing international bespoke institution.

As a side note, should you be in New York City next Monday or Tuesday, January 11-12, you may wish to stop by the Plaza Athenée Hotel at Madison Avenue and 64th Street to personally visit with Lorenzo Cifonelli himself.

Isn’t it exciting?

Cheers, HUGO

Spreading the Word on Kobold Arctic Diver Auction

2010-01-07T17:27:00.004-05:00

A big thanks to uber-watch blog Hodinkee for helping to spread the word about our Kobold Arctic Diver watch auction taking place here on eBay.

You still have a few days left to get in on the action, get a great watch help The Mission Continues continue to help our injured and disabled veterans. To learn more about this important auction, just scroll down or click here.

And stay tuned for the first cross-oceanic installment of the Parisian Gentleman blog on OTC. Looking for a modern take on classic bespoke? You could do worse than Cifonelli. Look for Part One tomorrow...

OTC/Kobold Watch Auction Now Live - Help Support Our Veterans!

2010-01-05T10:56:00.009-05:00

Dive into the New Year by helping to support America's veterans!

I am very happy to announce that the OTC/Kobold watch auction is now live on eBay. Please make sure to stop by the auction's page and take a look - but don't wait too long because it ends on January 11.

It's a great opportunity to do some good and score a cool deal - Mike Kobold has generously donated a brand new Arctic Diver Swiss, logoed baseball hat and several expedition patches from Kobold sponsored arctic missions. All of the auction's proceeds - that's 100% - will go directly to the veteran's support group, The Mission Continues.

Kobold's Arctic Diver Swiss

If you are not familiar with The Mission Continues, here is a little background. Founded by Navy Seal officer, Rhodes Scholar and White House Fellow Eric Greitens, The Mission Continues recognizes that injured veterans still have a desire to serve their country and their community.

The Mission Continues awards fellowships to empower wounded and disabled veterans to serve in their communities. In doing so, they send the message: "We still need you." America owes these men and women a great deal, but as a nation, we have much left to learn from them. While injury may have changed the nature of their service, their mission continues, and it is as important as ever. To learn more, please visit The Mission Continues' website.

Kobold Watch Company and its founder, Mike Kobold, have a deep connection with the armed and protective services. Kobold’s watches are depended on by every branch of the military; in fact operators from elite units helped Kobold develop its renowned Phantom chronograph. A leading American boutique watch brand, Kobold’s signature watches grace the wrists of explorers, politicians, soldiers and celebrities.

Kobold watches are regularly profiled in leading international watch and lifestyle magazines and they are considered by many to be some of the best tool watches in the world. Kobold Watch is a proud supporter of the Navy SEAL Warrior Fund.

So please spread the word about this great auction, link to your own blog or website, tell a friend and let other veterans know about this great auction - and about The Mission Continues.

Ringing In 2010: The OTC/Kobold Auction

2010-01-01T22:32:00.013-05:00

Happy New Year everyone! I can't believe it, but OTC has been up and running for nearly four year and has grown far beyond my initial expectations.

With more than 17,000 monthly readers in 40 countries, I have gained many new friends and had the privilege of helping a whole to of guys.

I have also come to appreciate that personal style, wardrobe and the small things that make up one's own look are far more important than most of us ever realize. My goal of creating a modern resource for classic style continues to come true and I have all of you to thank. OTC will continue to grow and expand, but one thing that will never change is my commitment to presenting timeless, classic style in a modern and practical manner. I also will use OTC as a platform to promote great brands, great ideas and great causes.

To that end, I need your help. OTC is honored to be working with the Kobold Watch Company to auction a new Arctic Diver watch for the benefit of the highly acclaimed veterans support group The Mission Continues. The auction will run January 4-9, 2010 - so mark your calendar!

All proceeds from this auction will go directly to The Mission Continues to help fund their community-based fellowship programs which support injured veterans across the country.

Mike Kobold, founder of Kobold Watch, which has a long-standing relationship with the Navy SEALs and a dedicated following across all branches of the military, personally donated the Arctic Diver watch for auction along with a signature Kobold baseball hat and Kobold-sponsored expedition patches.

Once the E-Bay link is live, I will post it here - so keep an eye out and get ready to dive into a new year!

Style Guide: The Crewneck Sweater

2009-12-22T17:05:00.008-05:00

I recently talked about the of v-neck sweaters, one of your cold weather wardrobe’s most versatile tools. It is, however, not the only option when it comes to lightweight or mid-weight sweaters. The other option is of course the standard against which all sweaters are measured – the crewneck sweater.

The crewneck sweater is a classic staple of men’s wardrobes everywhere. Based on the most basic of stylistic designs, this woven outer shirt is about as strait forward as a garment can be. And to me that is its enduring benefit; it can work with almost any outfit and easily be paired with jeans or grey flannels.

A good crewneck should have a lightly fitted body and trim arms, but not too tight. The hem of the sweater should sit at your waist with room to allow for sitting, stretching etc., but should not blouse over the ribbed bottom. This effect is unattractive on anyone and gives the impression that either you don’t know you own size (legitimately, a common and unfortunate problem for many guys) or that borrowed someone else’s sweater. Neither impression is a positive one.

The sweater should fit comfortably over an oxford shirt yet still allow for easy movement while maintaining a close fit. I like my sweater’s arms to either run a touch long so that I can turn back a good amount of cuff or end right at the wrist and allow some shirt sleeve to show. Anything in between tends to look out of proportion on me.

Modern fit (Zanone)

The neck is an area that merits additional attention. Some makers have neck lines that appear designed to strangle anyone foolish enough to stick their head through, while others seem to feel that wide gaping holes are somehow attractive. The ideal is a neck that allows the collar of your shirt to sit comfortably within, while the sweater itself offers a clean, firm neck hole that won’t easily lose its shape.

A good neck

Regarding fabrics, lamb’s wool is a solid standby and tends to be the most affordable of classic sweater materials. It is light and warm but rough enough to avoid being particularly formal. Merino wool is an excellent material and many of my favorite sweaters are made of merino. But by almost anyone’s standard, cashmere is really the gold standard. One- or two-ply is more than enough for the average office dweller. Three-ply cashmere sweaters are often hawked this time of year, but don’t fall for it. Pictures of handsome people frolicking in snowy New England winters do no good while you are sweating up a storm in your climate controlled office building – every day.

J. Press (t) & J. Crew (b)

When it comes to looks and construction, there are many different styles of crewnecks; from simple to elaborate, paper thin to bomb proof. After much thought, I have concluded that there are only two really useful styles: flat knit and cabled in solid colors.

A few years ago, during an after-Christmas sale, I came across a beautiful, chunky lamb’s wool Irish fisherman style sweater. It was a steal and I bought it. It didn’t take me long to realize that I couldn’t wear the thing anywhere except outside on a cold day. It weighed a ton and trapped too much heat. The upshot? Unless you actually are an Irish fisherman or really do work outside, give this heavy style a pass.

A mid- or lightweight cabled sweater is a much better choice and is simply more usable. You can find them in every color under the sun; from preppy primaries to English heathers. Classics brands like Brooks Brothers, J. Press, Ralph Lauren and J. Crew offer a wide variety of this timeless model and each maker has its own take on the classic shape. Where Brooks’ might run a little roomy, like its oxfords, J. Crew is likely more fitted.

The same goes for flat knit sweaters. These seamless, modern versions can give you a more modern look while still hewing to a traditional silhouette. Like the cabled crewneck, they are incredibly versatile and mix well with different materials. Flat knits in particular are good to have around because, if you want to go with a more casual look, they can also act as a grownup sweatshirt – relaxed but not sloppy.

Sweatshirt alternative (Banana Republic)

Younger designers focused on the resurgence of American Ivy League style are just as enamored with crewnecks. Michael Bastian makes a great version and Zanone, part of Italian brand Incotex, makes the washed cashmere version in the top image.

Michael Bastian's (l) take on preppy

Crewnecks also adapt well to layering, though don’t work as well as a v-neck if you want to sport a tie underneath. Like most pieces of classic preppy clothing, crewneck sweaters are a smart investment that will be in style long after their better days are behind them. But, that’s the charm of classic clothes: they get better with age.

Parisian Gentleman Goes English

2009-12-17T10:51:00.005-05:00

A quick note for those of you who are fans of the outstanding French language blog, Parisian Gentleman; Hugo is going English. Not entirely of course, but in response to reader requests, he'll be posting several of his most popular columns in English.

Hugo is an excellent writer and brings a comfortably elegant, candle-lit approach to the topic of menswear. Whenever I read his articles I imagine myself living in a old pre-war flat just off the Seine, tucked into an old leather chair with a glass of port next to me - staring out my balcony's French doors at the Tour Eiffel blink in the night.

The first translated article is already up: The Paradoxical Nature of Bespoke: A School of Discretion and Humility

I am equally happy to announce that Hugo will be posting some classic Off The Cuff columns on Parisian Gentleman, translated into French. Please take a moment to swing by and take a look at this exciting Anglo-Fances menswear collaboration.

Ivy League Grit: Hugh Simms

2009-12-15T16:02:00.012-05:00

As we roll full speed into the holiday season, I'll be pointing out a few great brands that offer something a little different in the gift giving department. Case in point - Hugh Simms' handmade ties.

In fact, they are handmade right in the middle of Los Angeles - a fitting tribute to the brand's Made In America philosophy. Hugh Simms launched his 2009 signature "Caulfield" collection of neckties to a very receptive audience.

The distinctive and narrow ties attracted the attention of many fashion insiders as they incorporated Simms’ “Ivy League Grit” style - classic prep school patterns with a disheveled American edge - with their own.

The Caulfield Collection is available at www.HUGHSIMMS.com and plans are in the works for several limited engagements in LA, New York City and Miami. His ties are also being carried in Kitson and Fred Segal - not bad by any stretch. Like any good designer these days, he also plans on rolling out a home accessories line in the near future.

** Hugh is offering a special discount for OTC readers. Just use the code HOLIDAY when ordering off the company's website and save 40%! This special deal expires after Christmas, so act now. **

Hugh is a very interesting guy who really does not fit the mold of an LA fashion designer. In fact, on paper, it's more likely he would be teaching history at Deerfield Academy. I spoke with Hugh about his ties and the idea behind his "Ivy League Grit" style.

A distant grandson of Lord Baltimore, the founder of Maryland, Simms prides himself on his East Coast roots. In 1997, after attending one the country's leading prep schools, Simms followed in his father’s footsteps and attended the Cornell School of Hospitality Administration, where he focused on business law and minored in wines.

The designer looking very LA

After a stint in the hotel business, he became an independent designer working on various projects. Eventually winding up in Los Angeles, Hugh attended the Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising and there developed his signature “Ivy League Grit” style.

When I spoke with Hugh about his design business and its inspiration, I noted that his "Ivy League Grit" look was similar to the world of Rugby, the Ralph Lauren brand. Hugh agreed that the feel is similar, but his goal is not to target teens looking for a theatrical retro fad, "Rugby is a more of a pretty boy younger, high school/collegiate market," said Simms. "I aim to create a lifestyle brand and clothing for those a bit older, rougher, and with a mindset of intelligence is sexy. I target an older clientele, 25-40; more Clive Owen and Daniel Craig then Zac Efron."

I pointed out that Drakes London, another excellent tie maker, also makes its local domestic production a point of pride. "Like Drakes I pride myself on my area. I have a strong group of craftsmen and women in Los Angeles and will never stray from the city. With the economy I believe people really do care about the made in USA provenance," he said.

The unique thing about Simms' ties is that they are distinctly casual; unusual for a handmade, very high quality necktie. While I have worn my "Rusty Gate" tie under a sweater and loosely tied with an oxford and jeans, this is not a business suit tie; unless of course you work in the fashion industry.

Simm's explained, "I created the tie ten inches longer to allow the end of the tie to be exposed. And a larger knot can be tied with an extra wrap around the knot which will easily adjust the look." It's a rough, even edgy, homage to the prep school look but perhaps too stylish for some. Personally, I like it - not for every day, but for when I want to have fun getting dressed without actually going casual.

What's next, I asked? "In the near future I'd like to do a bow tie, a very cool antique style pocket square and also cuff links. After that, I'll be focusing on menswear."

Target Pop Up Store In Georgetown

2009-12-11T12:32:00.006-05:00

Target just opened its cool little pop up store in Georgetown today, at the corner of Wisconsin and M Streets.

Target has squeezed a custom designed mini Swiss chalet into the parking lot right next to Old Glory (great place to stop for lunch by the way).

There are only three of these pop-up stores in the entire country - San Fransisco, New York City and here in Washington, D.C. It runs for only three days and then, it's gone. So make sure to swing by and check it out. Also, if you follow their Twitter feed, you'll get clues for the Target Gift Tag Hunt to win gift cards worth $100, and even on worth $500.

Sure, you can pick up a neat little Billy Kirk wallet over at ACL's occasional pop up flea - but for the next three days you can get your hands on a limited supply of Target's top holiday 50 gifts. Everything is pre-wrapped and ready to go. When you arrive, you are handed a clipboard printed with images of all the items, organized in nice, orderly fashion. The "store" is basically a huge glass case stocked with numbered examples of all 50 gifts, so you can see them in person. Make you picks, walk over to the bank or registers, pay and you are ready to go.

Products range from the new Star Trek movie DVD to a mini Margarita kit to a quilted bathrobe to a new Wii Fitness Pack. Some of the items are so exclusive to this project that they aren't even in regular Target stores yet. Whatever price point you have in mind, they can probably cover it.

I stopped by for yesterday's press event and was really impressed with the whole operation. Staffed by Target employees from both the home office in Minnesota and local stores across our region, the pop-up Target has a fun, seasonally festive feel to it.

It's cold out right now, so make sure to stop by the pink Curbside Cupcakes truck for a awesome cupcake and hot chocolate.

Style Guide: The V-Neck Sweater

2009-12-08T23:24:00.009-05:00

With cooler weather firmly planting itself across the globe's Northern hemisphere, it’s time to break out the warm weather clothes. Even those of us who work in cozy climate controlled offices are feeling the need to layer.

One of the most versatile pieces of clothing that should be in your winter wardrobe is a fine gauge v-neck sweater. Just like having a pair of classic dark washed jeans that can take you from office casual to drinks at the Ritz, a classic v-neck sweater will cover a lot of bases without overdoing it.

Now, I’m not talking about a chunky ski sweater or that shapeless holdover used for yard work. You should look on this sweater as alternative dress clothing; something lightweight, lightly fitted and soft.

Cashmere is the best choice of course, but depending on quality and brand name, it can be very expensive. And don’t bother with double and triple thick cashmere unless you are spending lots of time outdoors. Most of us are wearing these indoors at work or home and the extra thickness will only make you extra warm. If price is an issue, merino wool is as an alternative to cashmere. Look for tightly knit fabric that is soft to the touch and has a comfortable fit.

Stick with solids at first – grey, brown, navy blue, and black. Once you have the basics in place, add an argyle for that college professor look. Indeed, this season there is a fair amount of variety when it comes to knits and texture and you can add some flair to your wardrobe with cables, heathers, and rough-weaves. Classics like crew necks, sweater vests and cardigans are all in style this season as well, so make sure to check out of your options.

Fair Isle in earth tones

The v-neck sweater is a timeless piece that, when chosen carefully, can be happily used for years. Several seasons back a deeper “v” was favored, while these days a higher neck line is preferred. Generally speaking, I like the “v” to fall about two inches (roughly 5 cm) from the neck line as it provides room for a shirt collar to spread out while at the same time still containing it.

Argyle casual

A little more modern

Wear it over a tee shirt with those dressy jeans and you’re pulling off George Clooney-like cool. For a classic preppy look, throw it over an oxford and head off to a lunch meeting. If you are having dinner at a nice place but a jacket is still too formal, reach for your v-neck as the perfect compromise. Regardless, you’re good to go with this classically flexible layer.

Style & Sound: Peter Fox, Haus am See

2009-12-01T12:54:00.006-05:00

Start of the Sales: Tucker Blair

2009-11-30T10:36:00.007-05:00

Tucker Blair, the expanding purveyor of preppy needlepoint wares is offering Off The Cuff readers 20% off all Tucker Blair products TODAY ONLY - November 30, 2009.

The sale runs until midnight, EST. Once your order is ready to go, use the code holiday09.

In addition to their now famous needlepoint belts and headbands, the company offers great needlepoint and leather flip-flops (it's always warm somewhere), headbands, key chains and now nice looking polo shirts. I have not had a chance to try one on yet, but I no doubt that a Tucker Blair polo would be a well received gift.

I'll be posting more holiday specials from select OTC endorsed brands as we head further into the holiday season.

And keep an eye out for a very special opportunity to get your hands on a cool product from an OTC favorite and help our veterans at the same time. More to come on that, but our partnering organization on this special endeavor is an outstanding veteran's group called The Mission Continues.

The Interview: Michael Kobold (Part II)

2009-11-25T12:17:00.015-05:00

The continuation of Off The Cuff's exclusive interview with luxury watch maker Mike Kobold, founder of Kobold Watch Co. To read Part I of the interview, please click HERE.

Off The Cuff: So, who is your customer? Who is a Kobold guy?

Mike Kobold: He is someone who has an affinity for finely made products – shoes, cigars, cars, etc. Of course, he is also someone who has an affinity for watches regardless of his career. I say that because many of our watches are tool watches, they are meant to be used in challenging and difficult situations. But they are also beautiful and elegant pieces of horological art. (The new Soarway GMT is pictured above)

Though I am not going to go into too much detail about specific demographics, one group we do market to encompasses military/police/protective services.

Since our watches are not inexpensive – and I can touch on that in a minute – we do want to attract people who can afford them. Active service military or police tend to be younger guys with disposable income and, equally important, they want a distinctive best-of-class product that’s going to perform. At the other end of the spectrum are retired military; their kids are out of the house and they now have the chance to indulge in their own interests.

Mike Kobold, Founder

What I don’t want is someone who really can’t afford to purchase a Kobold at this time and who may then regret their decision because of other more important things they should be addressing. That’s a bad call for the customer and for Kobold because we now have someone with buyer’s remorse and potentially a watch that has moved to the secondary market.

OTC: What about the used watch, or “secondary” market? What is your feeling about that?

MK: You know, generally speaking I don’t think about it too much because that’s not where our focus is – we don’t create watches for the secondary market, we want someone to buy a Kobold watch because they want to keep it and use it. However, the secondary market does provide a point of entry for some people who cannot afford our watches at full price and that’s important too. I hope that should someone buy one of our watches through that channel, their next Kobold will come from us.

Watches are so personal and for many collectors, knowing that they picked out a specific watch and were involved in the acquisition from start to finish makes a huge difference to them. But however it happens, we want all Kobold owners to have the same feeling of being part of a special community. That’s key to any successful brand.

OTC: In some of the watch forums and chat rooms, I have seen negative comments about pricing – basically that you charge too much for your watches. Is that a fair complaint?

MK: Our watches are not inexpensive and I’m certainly not apologizing for that. But I think people need to remember that watch making is an expensive business and we are still a very small company. I’m a very frugal guy – I still live in the same one-bedroom apartment I’ve had since college, I drive a pre-owned car and am constantly reinvesting back into the business. The sub $1,000 watch market is like 90% of the overall market which means that all the high-end tool and luxury watches out there are all fighting for the same 10% market share.

The Phantom - a military favorite

The Spirit of America

That means constant development and constant marketing and those two things cost a lot of money. Remember too that the lag time for a new watch, from conception to retail can run anywhere from 6 months to two years. Production costs and overhead increases affect every business and we are no different – so yes, that gets reflected in the retail cost of our watches. Every year we offer a new model at a reduced price to say thank you to our current and new customers – it does cost us real money in the form of lost revenue, but honestly that’s immaterial because the point is to continue and build the Kobold community.

OTC: What about the production limit of 2,500 units per watch model – where did that come from?

MK: It came from the business plan I drafted for my MBA project; that’s actually when Kobold Watch was founded. I chose to cap watch production at 2,500 units per model because at that time it was a figure I never thought I would reach – an arbitrary number. Now it defines the unique nature of every Kobold watch and I have no plans to change it.

OTC: When I think of your brand, I see some guy parachuting into the wilderness to study extinct botany or something equally exotic. So what’s next for Kobold Watch - how do you plan to build on the brand?

MK: Well, you can tell your readers that right now I’m looking at the designs for a new chronograph – 40mm. They can expect to see it in a year or so. It’s a great looking watch. That’s one of the things I love about watches – the emotional value they have for so many people. Certainly building on the brand’s message - “Embrace Adventure” – is something I want to continue. Whatever that adventure is, Kobold can be part of it; whether you are exploring Antarctica, excavating Mayan ruins or just living your life, our watches are up to the task.

A Polar Surveyor in action

We’ll be rolling out new models on a pretty regular basis, still a 2,500 unit maximum and it’s amazing how that is no longer such a large number. I’m also working on a book – that’s still in the development phase and it’s something I am very excited about.

There are many medium and short term projects that will help expand the brand but also keep it involved in the lives of the serious adventurers who rely on and support Kobold Watch. One project I am very dedicated to and will likely take a very long time to accomplish is the development of a 100% American automatic military watch. Our soldiers, sailors and airmen all wear watches that are made in other countries – good watches to be sure – but not American.

I want this country to be a leader again in fine horology and that will take a long time to accomplish because it involves rebuilding an entire industry that have been absent from the American landscape for more than 40 years. Still, that’s my big long term goal.

OTC: Mike, thanks very much for taking the time to speak with me and for giving Off The Cuff’s readers across the world a better understanding of your great brand – and your great watches.

The Interview: Michael Kobold (Part I)

2009-11-22T22:57:00.024-05:00

Close your eyes. What comes to mind when I say, “handmade mechanical timepiece,” “exacting quality,” and “coveted by collectors, celebrities, explorers and heads of state?” Did your thoughts immediately drift to Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania? Maybe they should.

While Switzerland is home to the likes of Rolex and Germany to Glashutte, the Steel City is in fact the world headquarters of Kobold Watch Company and the remarkable Michael Kobold.

At all of 30 years old, Kobold has done something most in the luxury industry – heck, any industry – would have thought impossible. Within the insular world of high-end timepieces Michael Kobold has created a boutique watch company from scratch and it’s thriving. His line of watches, anchored by the stunning, and stunningly functional Polar Surveyor, is primarily geared to adventurous types – armchair and genuine alike.

Mike Kobold

Celebrating its 12th anniversary this year, Kobold Watch Company is barely out of diapers when compared to brands like Cartier, Jaeger-LeCoultre or Breguet. But his creations are already being compared to Rolex and Omega – two brands traditionally associated with jet setting, globetrotting and adventure. Often it’s Kobold doing the comparison, but that’s part of his brand’s success: he isn’t afraid to put his products to the test and tell you why they are just as good – if not better – than those other gold plated names.

When I first came across Kobold and his quirky little watch company a few years ago, it intrigued me. Nothing serious mind you, but I heard that the guy wore one of his watches on each wrist and that’s got to count for something. The more I learned, the more the man and brand impressed me.

I’m not alone. His loyal brand ambassadors include former President Bill Clinton, A-list actors like The Sopranos’ James Gandalfini and CSI: New York’s Gary Sinise, legendary adventurer Sir Ranulph Fiennes and global architect Daniel Libeskind.

Ran Fiennes: Brand Ambassador-in-Chief

I recently took receipt of my first Kobold, the Arctic Diver “Swiss.” This is a new model being offered in three versions, the “Swiss” which houses an ETA 2824-A2 movement, and two other variations which primarily sport U.S. components and are run by an in-house manufacture K.2651 movement based on new-old-stock German made movements.

My new Kobold Arctic Diver

The flagship Polar Surveyor

It’s a great watch. And though at 46mm it’s quite big, the Arctic Diver sits very comfortably on my wrist. What really impressed me however, was the emotional connection I developed with this watch almost immediately. It’s unique yet classically inspired design is easy to read which is good because it’s also very much built for someone who plans on wearing it to the ends of the earth. This watch has a purposefulness to it that makes me want to be like Indiana Jones, or Phillipe Cousteau (who, by the way designed his own Kobold watch).

Philippe Cousteau & The Large Soarway Diver

So, after watching this upstart company grow from the offshoot of an MBA project into a legitimate and respected player in the high-end horological business, I was ready to sit down with Mike and find out what makes Kobold tick.

Off The Cuff: Mike, tell me how things are going in the watch business? It’s been a rough year and most high-end brands are down about 30% – does that sound right?

Mike Kobold: Yes, pretty much every brand has seen at least a 30% overall drop from last year. Everyone’s been hit hard, but we have been able to make some adjustments and trim costs without compromising our standards. Still, the market is overheated and some of the larger houses have not been able to react as nimbly as us.

OTC: What has been your approach?

MK: We have cut costs without cutting our customer service. That has meant fewer trips and fewer shows. Fewer dinners and less entertaining; and my staff have worked to identify areas where we can tighten the belt and squeeze out more efficiency. We are still a small operation and have the ability to react a little more quickly than others. We saw what was coming down the road and started to make changes early.

OTC: What about your Internet-based model? How has that helped, or hurt, your overall business?

MK: It has definitely helped in that we are able to focus on watchmaking and keep the business geared toward customer service. It’s also easier for us to keep in direct contact with our customers and potential customers know that if they call us, they are going to be speaking with a real person – could be me. That said, as we have grown it’s just not that easy for me to be in direct contact with all of the customers and that’s been a frustration, albeit a nice one to have. It’s definitely been an organic kind of growth.

One of the main challenges of being an internet-based company is exposure. Since we only have a very small retail presence, Kobold has to do a lot of advertising. And as the founder and face of Kobold, I need to be out networking and making appearances. If you looked at my expense reports, you probably would question my cost cutting claim, but a big part of my job is to be seen, to meet people and to generate interest in and awareness of the brand. Still, it’s getting harder for me to maintain a personal level of customer interaction as we continue to grow.

As a company, having a strong focus on customer contact and service also means that we are better able to anticipate and react to customer needs. For example, the Arctic Diver roll-out was delayed a couple of times (ed: originally scheduled for customer delivery in April 2009, customers who pre-ordered their watches finally started to receive them in August). That really frustrated and embarrassed me, but it was a supplier issue and there wasn’t much I could do at that end.

OTC: So, how did you handle it?

MK: What we did for our customers who had pre-ordered an Arctic Diver was give them a free calfskin strap and make every effort to keep them up to date. We actually called every person and told them what was going on and let them know that they were getting a free strap as a thank you for their patience. It cost us a fair amount of money, but it was the right way to handle an unfortunate situation.

To be continued in Part II...

Behind The Scenes: Terra Cotta Warriors at National Geographic

2009-11-18T22:52:00.018-05:00

I headed up M Street feeling a bit like an archaeologist being ushered into a dig site long after the locals had cleared out.

With the White House a few short blocks away, I strode up to the National Geographic Museum and promptly entered the wrong door. After finding the right entrance, I found myself face to face with a warrior and his horse - both almost 2,000 years old.

Along with about 30 bloggers and photographers from across DC, I was invited to a sneak peek of National Geographic's new exhibit, "Terra Cotta Warriors: Guardians of China's First Emperor." I've been telling you about this for a few months and I really could not wait to get in and take a look.

The exhibit finally opened today but yesterday evening I got the chance to be slightly more than an armchair adventurer. I also got to take pictures which you will not, so if you go please leave the camera in your bag.

Featuring the largest number of terra cotta figures ever to travel to the United States for a single exhibition, the collection showcases 15 terra cotta figures from the tomb of China's first emperor. It also highlights 100 sets of artifacts including weapons, stone armor, coins and jade jewelry among many other items.

Stone armor & detail

Considered by China to be Grade I artifacts, the collection sent to the United States is literally priceless. My notes from the sneak peek contain words like "remarkable", "astounding" and "beautifully curated exhibit." The setting is serene and organized as though one where walking through a pavilion or elegant home.

The exhibition will run through March 31, 2010. Hours are 10:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m., with extended hours on Wednesdays until 9:00 p.m.Tickets are $12 for adults and $10 for children 2-12 and seniors. Kids under 2 are free. For more information, visit www.warriorsdc.org or call (202) 857-7700.

As a special benefit, the PIMCO Foundation, an exhibition sponsor, is partnering with the museum to offer 200 free tickets every Wednesday evening.

I want to thank the National Geographic staff for hosting this special event and for a remarkable show. Here are some of my favorite shots from last evening:

For information about this remarkable and rare show, please visit its site at www.warriorsdc.org.

OTC Find: Punto (Machine Washable) Cashmere Socks

2009-11-13T16:21:00.010-05:00

New York-based British Apparel recently contacted OTC with the news that, along with its Italian partner Punto, they had developed the world's first, 12-month, year-round cashmere socks. And, they are machine washable. Would I like to try out a couple of pair?

Of course I did; not only because I’ve wanted to check out cashmere socks ever since I sold them at $175 a pop for Ralph Lauren way back when, but also because I really wanted to see if they are in fact machine washable. One of the biggest pet peeves I have about these kinds of luxury items is the maintenance factor.

According to British Apparel’s press release, these new socks are, “Hailed The Coziest, Comfiest Socks Ever. British Apparel's Revolutionary New 'All-Season Cashmere Collection' Snubs All Temps, Cuddles Feet In A Cocoon Of Pillow-Soft Cushioning Year-Round. Then, just toss 'em in the washer!”

Cashmere of course is the holy grail of cold weather style. Light and pliable yet warm and silky soft – the last few years have seen every company from Brooks Brothers to Costco hawking their cashmere goods.

Quality and durability wax and wane depending on the maker and some claims while impressive are a little impractical. Anyone who has worn a single- or double-ply cashmere sweater to the office can probably tell you that triple-ply is only needed during arctic expeditions.

But winter is still cashmere's ideal clime and the idea of year-round cashmere socks intrigued me. According to BA, their Punto-made cashmere socks are “Mother Nature's ultimate shock absorbers.”

With that impressive claim in mind, off I went to the daily commute. While I was no less tired at the end of my test week, I have to admit that my cashmere ensconced feet felt great. In fact, what struck me was that they felt so good I never really thought about those socks I was trying out. Not bad at all.

As great as cashmere is, cashmere socks have two well-known problems: one, their fame as winter's one-trick pony, and second, their reputation as being frail and fragile – suitable only for hand washing.

Those two Achilles’ heels have apparently been resolved because I’ve shuttled my Punto socks from washer to dryer several times after days of use and they are just fine. Mind you, I followed the care instructions but I nonetheless pretty well beat them up.

What makes it work? Essentially, Punto's new collection is a hi-tech blend of yarns that combine three hybrid versions of everyday yarns – cashmere, super-soft cotton and a smidgen of hi-performance nylon for stretch, elasticity and long-wear durability. So, technically, they are not cashmere-only socks, no doubt leaving some purists appalled, but I have no problem with a little modern tinkering.

The collection’s 18 colors come in a dress weight and are available in the taller and dressier, over-the-calf silhouette as well as the shorter and sportier, mid-calf height. Retail prices for the socks will run in the range of $55 to $65, respectively.

To buy your own pair, please visit British Apparel's website and online store.

From The OTC Archives: Bow Ties

2009-11-10T17:41:00.007-05:00

Mike T. from Scottsdale Arizona recently asked if OTC has ever written about bow ties. Mike has been sporting them for 30 years and I couldn't be happier to hear it.

As a guy from New England, and an Ivy League college town to boot, I know from bow ties. I have long been a big fan and to me they have always represented a shot of jaunty intellectual creativity. So, I dug through the OTC archives and pulled together some thoughts on bow ties.

Just so we're clear, I am taking about the bow ties you actually have to tie yourself. Clip-ons are to me a wasted effort. The imperfection of a self tied tie is what makes it such a personal expression of your own style. The only tie knot that should appear symmetrically flawless is the double Windsor, and that's only because if done correctly it can look no other way.

Southern gentlemen have embraced the bow tie for generations and it seems that the current upsurge in bow tie interest was given birth in the Low Country. My instinctive style guide is finally getting some validation as bow ties are now starting to show up all over the place. Southern gentlemen though seem to have a better understanding of the bow tie's edgier, intellectual capacity. A bow tie takes some guts to wear and, stereotypes notwithstanding, is not for the meek and timid.

About as Southern a bow tie as you can get

Tucker Carlson, the political commentator stopped wearing his trademark bow ties in part because he came to realize that they were viewed as slightly aggressive. Apparently in the tie-wearing world, at least in D.C., they are the sartorial equivalent of daring someone to pick a fight.

The core of the bow tie movement seems to be a particular elevation of the overall trend toward a sense of formality in menswear. We all know this does not mean that every guy out there wants to wear a three piece suit to work. However, if you look across the landscape of men's clothing there is a definite move toward looking better and cleaning up.

This is not new, I've been talking about the trending away from slouchy casual for a while; but in my opinion, it is now taking on more definition. Where the latter 1990s, just before the tech boom, was a boring morass of bland office wear - really, the last clearly defined period of "business dress" as a uniform - we now have a movement that is actively seeking a modern update of classic influences. And it's really a self motivating movement; out of the necessity to appear professional and keep one's job, the desire to get a job or just for the love of dressing well.

Urban cool bow tie

Viewed that way, I would call today's bow tie wearers the modern dandy. Really, this is the perfect compromise for the stylish man of today (or even the man of today who wants to be stylish). Think about it: a dandy, in his original guise, was an individualist during a period of conformity and class stratification.

He was someone who wanted to make a mark of society, turn convention on its head, find a place in the salons and courts of the power players and yet still fall within the general framework of polite society. In essence a dandy is an individualist to whom others are drawn, yet someone who still maintains his own identity.

A handy do-it-yourself guide

I don't know about you, but to me that rather sounds like the personality of today's up and coming entrepreneurs and big thinkers. Of course not all of our future world leaders are going to run out to stock up on bow ties, but many of them are looking to find their version of the power suit, the perfect watch, the best car or the right shoes. And as it happens, they seem to be demanding quality of quantity, substance over flash, and the unique over anonymous.

J. Peterman's Mailbag - The Best Bag Ever?

2009-11-03T16:47:00.007-05:00

It’s funny how sometimes things just come together. I am a bag guy; I have lots of different bags, from elegant leather briefs to beat-up nylon messengers.

One of my all-time favorites is the Counterfeit Mailbag, from the J. Peterman Company. In fact, it's one of the first bags I ever wrote about and was sent to me by John Peterman himself - it can't really get better than that.

The bag, based on the classic leather workhorse lugged across the country by a generation of letter carriers, is simple and classic. Unique enough to be modern and fit effortlessly into the current “heritage” trend it is also timeless enough to always look current.

A fantastic example of this staying power was brought to my attention by one of my readers in California. Though she asked to remain anonymous, this globe-trotting lady has had a 15-year love affair with her J. Peterman mailbag. For those of us who knew J. Peterman back in the day, those first Owner’s Manual catalogs, with the now iconic watercolor illustrations, were collector’s items.

Products like the Counterfeit Mailbag were and still are the core of Peterman’s unique and creative product mix.

With my sincere thanks, here is her story, in her own words (these are her pictures too, what a great looking bag):

Back in 1994 when I bought the Counterfeit Mailbag, $300 was a lot of money to me. I remember the year because I got it at the same time the Olympics were in Norway. It was almost a full month's rent. I coveted the bag from the moment I first saw it in the J. Peterman Catalog. I tore the page out of the catalog, pinned it to my fridge together with an envelope. Every time I had an extra $1 or $5, I stuck it in the envelope. Eventually after about a year I had enough to buy it.

I remember being so excited when it came – I took pictures of it! They are right... when you first get it, you are afraid of every little scratch or the rain... but the fears pass away as the bag gets worn in. The leather becomes very soft and supple. Of course it is worn, dirty and has an ink stain on the side from a leaky pen -- but that just gives it character. I still get compliments on the bag all the time.

The amazing thing is that this bag has really, truly stood the test of time. I am in awe. I have probably unzipped that zipper 30-40,000 times. It's never once given me a bit of problem. It's never needed repairs, either. All of the stitching has held beautifully, even the parts that get the most wear and tear. They just don't make quality stuff like this anymore. The description in the catalog is right -- it will most certainly outlast me.

My bag has been with me in all my travels over the years: Australia, New Zealand, Papua New Guinea, Sri Lanka, India, Israel, Jordon, Egypt, across China, Tibet, Thailand, Japan, South Korea, Vietnam, Russia, just about every country in Europe, South Africa, Kenya, Ethiopia, Mexico, Costa Rica, Argentina, Brazil, Chile, Peru – and all over the U.S. It was even with me in a crowd of millions on The Mall when Obama took the oath of office.

Hint: When filled with clothing, the bag makes a perfect impromptu pillow.

I realize that some people like a bag or suitcase with lots of pockets - but not me. I find that the one deep pocket serves me well. I use 2-3 smaller zippered enclosures to keep toiletries and other small items organized, but that's about it.

I travel extremely lightly. So light that you'd think I was going away for 1 night. On most of those trips, the only bag I took was this one and one smaller purse for those times I didn't want to take the bag with me. I learned very early that you really don't need much to travel. Most things can be purchased along the way.

Another hint: I keep a small fake wallet in my bag, right near the top. I keep a few bills of the local currently in there along with some business cards and such. It's been pick pocketed 2-3 times in my travels and I handed it over when I was mugged once in Italy -- but they've never gotten the real one which I keep in the zippered section and most passport/credit card/extra money in an around the waist money belt.

It's also my every day throw over my shoulder commuter bag but I also empty it out when I walk down to the grocery store and use it to haul my groceries or farmer's market items home.

It's an investment that's been well worth every penny I spent.

Style Guide - The Blue Blazer

2009-10-31T22:05:00.009-04:00

When it comes to wardrobe basics, the one thing you should have on sartorial speed dial is a blue blazer. A blue blazer is the backbone of any serious wardrobe. The perennially popular Preppy Handbook even dubbed it the male exoskeleton.

Preppy or not, a blue blazer is the one article of dress clothing all men should have hanging in the closet. It is universally useful and chameleon-like when it comes to meeting your needs in a sartorial pinch.

Now, when they hear “blue blazer” people tend to think of the classic brass button type found on the bridge of a yacht in a Ralph Lauren advertisement. Of course that version is the most traditional, but by no means is it the only option. Blue blazers come in a range of fabrics and styles that can work with almost anyone’s style - from lightweight linens to beefy flannels.

As the king of odd jackets, a blue blazer can fill the gap when you need to dress somewhere between a suit and a sweater, regardless of the season.

Styles vary as much as materials. Some blazers have horn or resin buttons instead of shipshape brass ones. They can come with single, double or no vents; notched or peaked lapels. Other design variations can change the overall feel of the garment.

A double breasted blazer, with its nipped waist and dramatic massing of buttons can impart formality. On the other hand, a single breasted sack jacket with no darting and patch pockets can give you a more casual “drinks at the club” New England persona.

When it comes to shoulders, there are some cultural variations as well. American blazers often have a soft natural shoulder, while English tailors tend to prefer them padded and more structured. This is particularly true with double breasted jackets. American makers like Brooks Bothers and J. Press are arbiters of the natural shoulder; a style I tend prefer.

When shopping for a blue blazer, approach it as a major investment. This should be a jacket that can carry you for years to come and something that you are happy to reach for in the morning. A well constructed blazer made from good fabric will be as comfortable as your favorite sweatshirt and its classic styling will conquer the vagaries of many fashion cycles.

The core benefit of the blue blazer is its inherent versatility. It can make jeans, Chuck Taylors and an old polo shirt look city cool or give khakis, boat shoes and a favorite oxford some un-stuffy dressiness.

The blue blazer works because of its balance between formal and comfortable. It’s one of those rare garments that has both stood the test of time and evolved to meet the needs of each generation.

OTC: Behind DC's Velvet Rope

2009-10-21T23:21:00.018-04:00

On Monday Fashion Washington, The Washington Post's luxury lifestyle magazine hosted a private party to celebrate its one year anniversary. It was also FW's chance to flex a little fashion and eco star power as it also awarded Philippe and Alexandra Cousteau the honor of being DC's Most Fashionable.

From 7:00-10:00 that evening, the recently opened Masa 14 was ground zero for many of DC's best dressed and most fashionable. OTC was there to check it out and report back to you.

Celebrity blogger Scott "The Sartorialist" Schuman was there to schmooze and do a special book signing for the attendees. His official book signing began at 10:00 p.m. and by the time I got there a crowd was already gathering outside Masa 14.

I chatted with Scott for a while and asked why is it that Europeans in particular always seem to pull together great, classic looks that are always in style. Without hesitating he replied, "American men have too many choices. We have all these brands and labels that just pile up and encourage American guys to "be" a certain look. Who am I today? Am I a Ralph safari guy or an Abercrombie pretty preppy boy?"

He noted that Europeans - Italians in particular - "tend to have a single, classic silhouette with a few variations in color, fabric and cut. Milan, style-wise, is deep but narrow, so you have this amazing depth of knowledge and style and everyone tends to refine a common look."

"American men also have an issue with fit. We are so focused on getting something right now that we forget to make sure all the details fit - basically we are pretty lazy about looking good." That said, Scott was wearing Ralph Lauren Purple Label head to toe - and it fit just fine.

He added that "American guys need to utilize and appreciate tailors - that is a big failing of ours." Lastly, Scott pointed out that we should not necessarily try and be Europeans; American style, especially the American Preppy/Ivy League look, is our heritage when it comes to fashion. We should be proud of it.

Philippe and I compared our Kobold dive watches. Of course, while I am a huge fan of my New Arctic Diver, Philippe was wearing the watch he designed with Kobold - the Large Soarway Diver - a portion of the purchase price goes to help fund his organization Earth Echo.

He was a very nice guy - look forward to a more in depth discussion with Philippe in the coming weeks.

It was a great event that really did highlight a fashion community on the rise - no complaints about that!

Here are a couple of shots from the FW party:

With Scott Schuman

With Philippe Cousteau

General shots from FW's night out:

Stay tuned for more red carpet reports, as I'll be in Las Vegas shortly and covering the opening of John Varvatos' new store at the Hard Rock Cafe.

OTC Recommends: Suunto Elementum

2009-10-15T00:17:00.010-04:00

About two months ago OTC was contacted by Suunto, a watch company based in Helsinki, Finland. Suunto is best known as a designer of midrange digital sports watches that border on being wrist computers.

Founded in 1936, Suunto has a long and respected history as an innovator in sports timing, especially in the field of digital timing.

It turns out that Suunto is going upscale and wanted to see what OTC thought of the effort.

The new Suunto Elementum collection – exclusively manufactured in Finland – consist of three unique watches geared to specific activities. Now, as you may already guess, OTC does not really fit the digital watch model. Typically, when we discuss watches we’re talking about things like the benefits of tourbillions or how the very inaccuracy of mechanical watches make them so special.

That is still very much the case here, but the Elementum caught us off guard. These stylish, urban-inspired watches combine a high degree of craftsmanship with precision digital technology in a unique and attractive package. The goal in creating this collection was to marry form and function in an upscale and highly designed product. As far as we’re concerned, it worked.

The collection consists of three watches, Elementum Aqua, Elementum Terra and Elementum Ventus, specifically designed for diving, mountaineering and sailing. Their Latin names directly translate to water, earth and wind, which are the three elements that surround the activities Suunto Elementum is inspired by and designed to help navigate through.

Noticing an increased interest and demand for stylish but functional premium sports watches, Suunto developed the Elementum Collection to meet the needs of three specific types of people.

Elementum Aqua (on stainless steel bracelet)

The Aqua detects when the user enters the water and starts all the functions and measurements for a dive, such as depth, maximum depth, dive time, surface time and water temperature.

Elementum Terra (on leather strap)

The Terra is equipped to help its wearer survive in the outdoors, such as an altimeter for altitude measurement, barometer for easy prediction of weather changes and compass for navigation.

The Ventus is a highly sophisticated yet interestingly elegant sailing timepiece with features that allow for predictions of upcoming weather, an advanced compass for navigation and a sailing timer for the timing race starts.

After reviewing the three models – each available with a variety of finishes and straps – we chose Ventus as the test model. Its association with sailing and the hefty leather strap made it a good match with OTC’s sense of style.

Elementum Ventu (on leather strap)

Once the watch arrived, it was clear to us that Suunto was moving in a very premium direction. The outer box’s gallery drop front and inner box’s solid feel and clean finish all foretold that something different was going on.

The first thing we noticed about the watch was that while it is a solid 45mm across and sat quite high on the wrist, it weighed almost nothing. The face is a completely seamless crystal (negative display) and all functions are controlled by the pushers at three and four o-clock and the knob at two o-clock.

The Ventus is a sharp looking watch. Most people who commented on it said that it’s an interesting (in a good way) combination of new and old, modern and functional.

What we really like though, is the leather strap. The thick tan hide nicely counterpoints the case’s brushed stainless steel case and signed buckle. First time on the wrist and it felt moulded in place and the white top stitching really compliments the overall feel.

Technically speaking the functions are simple and strait forward – once you figure out which feature is controlled by which pusher. The barometric pressure graph is very useful (and cool) and the backlighting is, as my nephew would say, “wicked bright.”

Brand wise, Suunto has handled everything in-house, which is very admirable. The watches and the campaign’s approach both reflect this more personal philosophy. Each watch in the collection has its own brand ambassador. Ventus’ is Finnish sailing champion and Olympian Thomas Johanson. Check out his Suunto video HERE.

OTC happily recommends the Suunto Ventus as a cool yet classic tool watch with a modern flair. It’s functional, stylish, has a killer strap and the impressive pedigree of North Sea testing. Please note that it’s not a suit watch; it’s a dressy casual watch that can hit the seas (or just the mall) without skipping a beat.

Suunto Elementum is available in the USA, Sweden and Italy. It will be available this fall in Finland, Argentina, Greece, Japan and Singapore. MSRP is approximately $1,000.

Timeless Classic: The A-1 Flight Jacket

2009-10-11T16:28:00.017-04:00

In this weekend's edition of the Wall Street Journal, I read a great piece about Norman Rockwell's famous painting, "Freedom of Speech".

The iconic image, pictured here, represents one of the four "essential freedoms" set forth in Franklin D. Roosevelt's inauguration speech of January 6, 1941. The painting was made in 1943 as part of the four image series. While the other three - Freedom From Want, Freedom From Fear and Freedom Of Worship - are equally inspiring, Freedom of Speech is particularly special to me.

Apart from allusions to the Lincoln-inspired central figure and the less direct hints of church and school, central tenets of American culture, what caught my attention was the jacket.

That central figure, the common man speaking his mind at a town meeting, is wearing an Army Air Corp A-1 flight jacket. The symbolism of the jacket, clearly worn and softened by age, tells us that perhaps he served in the military in his younger days and now works in a manual but honorable field. He is the embodiment of the classic "great citizen".

A modern version of the A-1

I once had that jacket, in a manner of speaking, and mourn its loss whenever I think about it - like now. Many years ago I ordered the A-1 from the now defunct Willis & Geiger, then a part of Lands' End. I felt, once I had actually tried it on, that the jacket was too snug and a bit too new looking. So, I returned it; what an idiot. Shortly thereafter W&G closed its virtual doors and the jacket was gone for good.

Only now do I fully appreciate the totally unique and classic style this jacket represents. Why is it snug? To fit close to the pilot's body in the cramped cockpit. It's button-front closure is the result of the zipper not yet having been invented in 1927, the A-1'a year of issue. The knit collar, a variant of the baseball jacket type, was designed to close snug around a pilot's neck and keep out the cold wind of an open cockpit.

Too new looking? Well, it was new and I was stupid. In hindsight I see with painful clarity how beautifully that capeskin would have aged. So it goes.

The A1 is the predecessor to the better known A2 and it is easy to see the early DNA of the endlessly copied A2. Technically referred to as the A1 Summer Flying Jacket and manufactured as Navy issue from November 1927 to 1931, it was eventually replaced by the G1.

The well-known A-2

Eastman, a manufacturer of exacting reproductions notes that the A-1 was synonymous with early aviation heroes, including Jimmy Doolittle, Ira Eaker and Carl Spaatz. The A-1 was also the very first of the windcheater-type flying jackets outfitted with knitted waist and cuffs, and a design that was to set the basic outline for flying jacket styling to this day.

Eastman's Reproduction A-1

Although superseded in design by the A-2 in1931, the A-1 was still being issued, albeit in limited numbers, well into the 1940s, and was not officially declared obsolete until September 29th 1944.

Originally, the A-1 was specified to be made from a olive drab cape leather, but the few existing examples that can be found today are always a chestnut-brown shade of capeskin. High detail replicas, essentially historical reproductions, can cost anywhere from $800 to $1,200. Modern versions in hide can run around $400.

The great thing about the the A-1 is that it is both a classic example of timeless style and something at works seamlessly with say, jeans, a white J.Press oxford and old docksiders. It's both old school and modern cool and you can't beat that combination.

Saks Goes Private....Label

2009-10-07T01:36:00.012-04:00

What do you think of when I say “Saks Fifth Avenue”? Exclusivity, style, pricey clothes and perhaps most of all – labels.

Saks typically brings you the kinds of label that break the bank: Armani, Boss, Brioni, Brunello Cucinelli, Burberry, Cavalli, Gucci, Maison Martin Margiela, Rag & Bone to name just a few.

One of Saks Fifth Avenue’s hallmarks has always been its gold plated collection of high-end designers. After its deep price slashing last holiday season, seen by many as tacky, the company’s high-end reputation was rocked.

Now Saks has rolled out something new and eyebrows are being raised. Saks Fifth Avenue Men’s Collection represents the company’s major push into private label branding; something the store has eschewed up to now.

The Men’s Collection took two years to develop and encompasses everything from ties, shoes and socks to suits, cashmere sweaters and outerwear. The collection was a joint effort between Saks’ men’s merchant team and consultant Peter Rizzo, a men’s wear veteran whose career includes stints at Barneys New York, Bergdorf Goodman Men, Polo Ralph Lauren and I.C. Isaacs.

While Saks already had some private label brands, the Men’s Collection represents a first – a fully coordinated, high end competitor aimed squarely at the luxury menswear market. It’s also representative of a private label/proprietary brand trend making its way across the retail spectrum, from supermarkets to Madison Avenue.

In Saks’ case, in addition to converting fashion cognoscenti, they hope to attract shoppers who have been intimidated by the company’s reputation for being an exclusive and trendy citadel to the elite. It’s a real collection, not just an offshoot and part of the strategy is to make the Saks brand more approachable.

The impetus behind the Men’s Collection is fairly strait forward. Luxury labels are pushing retailers for higher profit margins. Private labels are a balancing factor that bring up-market shoppers a more affordable alternative but only when (1) actual quality, in both manufacturing and design, and (2) perceived value are accepted.

As designer Tommy Hillfinger recently stated on CNBC during a panel discussion with Steve Sadove, CEO of Saks, at the end of the day it’s about the product. That and service; luxury goods are a high-touch business and customers factor the service aspect of their transaction into the overall price-to-value ratio.

Saks Men's Collection (l), Bloomingdale's The Men's Store (r)

With an eye toward lower price points for quality and design equivalent to luxury prestige brands, the Men’s Collection is a relative value for the right customer. Average prices are up to 50% less than direct brand competitors – many of which are carried by Saks. This can’t make them very happy, but from Saks perspective taking care of its customers is paramount, even at the expense of its vendors’ sense of trust.

According to WWD, prices are about 20 percent higher than opening-price point merchandise and range from $65 for polos and $75 for ties to $1,100 to $1,300 for suits and up to $1,500 for outerwear. Cashmere sweaters are $295 to $345; merino wool sweaters are $130 to $215; dress pants are $195, and woven shirts are $135 to $165.

Saks Fifth Avenue is not alone in this upscale move to house branding. Bloomingdale's recently launched The Men's Store and Lord & Taylor have thier "Black & Brown" line designed by Joseph Abboud. The Wall Street Journal's Christina Binkley recently produced an excellent article on this trend - it's worth a read.

Style Guide: Argyle Socks

2009-09-28T22:03:00.013-04:00

A couple of months ago, as the weather was heating up, I posted a piece about Smart Turnout's new line of argyle socks.

Although I still think wearing lightly patterned argyle in the summer is a fun, albeit incongruous look, it's now Autumn and this is truly argyle season.

Argyle's classic design of overlapping diamonds has a certain heavy warmth which reminds me of bundling up on crisp mornings to walk the dog. Maybe it's the historic pattern's Scottish heritage or its perennial prevalence in sweaters and thick socks, but it just makes me think "warmth."

Wearing argyle can be a tricky thing and if you are not careful "clever-brainy-iconoclast" drifts into "goofy-overpattered-stereotype". Keep it simply by using this dramatic pattern in small or targeted doses.

Today, let's talk socks.

Want to spice up your otherwise traditional suit? Try out a pair of dark or muted argyle socks with a black, navy blue or dark grey base. That will tone down the overall pattern and give you a shot of fun pattern without making it look to kitschy. Pick a base color that you would normally wear with your outfit.

Classic and coordinated (credit, WASP 101)

A note - this works when you are suited up but not going overly formal. Barrel cuff? Have a little fun. Cufflinks? Keep it formal.

As a side note, I'm not really a fan of argyle ties. I find them too affected for my taste, but that is a personal thing. Some guys may be able to pull them off, but the look is often more comic than clever. This isn't the same thing as plaid; clearly I like plaid ties.

Argyle socks can actually be paired with most looks except formal business attire, black tie (obvious I know, but I've actually seen it tried) and shorts. Kilts yes, shorts, not really.

Follow the same rule as above and marry the base color to the pant. With casual clothing however, you needn't match the two; you can offset the two. With jeans, go brighter and let the shock of color and pattern show through. Khakis can either blend or contrast as long as either the pants or top pick up some of the argyle design.

Almost looks like something you would
see today in J. Crew (credit, Ivy Style)

Pairing with casual shoes is actually pretty easy, just something that most guys are not used to. loafers, moccasins, chukka boots and Timberlands are all natural mates to argyle socks. If you want to take a more urban casual turn, try them with classic trainers (sneakers). Do not try this with your Air Jordans or techno cross trainers. Classic Adidas, Stan Smiths, Chuck Taylors or something along those lines will work just fine.

So there you have it, a quick argyle primer for the Fall. I'll talk about argyle on your upper half shortly. If you have any questions or comments, or if you think I missed something, just let me know.

I'm pretty much over the preppy skull thing,
but the pairing is great

And please remember, especially with something as personally subjective as argyle, different people can pull off different things. Yes, Andre Benjamin can wear argyle head to toe and look totally cool. But do you really plan on wearing that look to the office?

OTC Profiled on Washingtonian.com!

2009-09-23T10:54:00.011-04:00

I am very excited to announce that Washingtonian.com, the online home of Washingtonian Magazine, today profiled Off The Cuff on its Capitol Comment Blog.

That OTC has captured the interest of a blue chip publication like Washingtonian is cool enough, but the photo of me even impressed my wife. Trust me, I'm not nearly as swanky looking in real life.

The interview was a lot of fun and I want to send out a big thanks to the staff over at Washingtonian. It is truly a humbling experience to realize that OTC has grown into such a leading resource for so many people in so many places.

Photo by Chris Leaman, Washingtonian Magazine

I also want to point out that the suit I'm wearing in the photo is the same one profiled in my "Going Custom" posts.

There was some back and forth in the final "Custom" installment, and hopefully this picture better captures the excellent fit and styling of the VM Clothiers suit. By the way, he also made the double cuff shirt I'm wearing in the shot.

A Windsor of a Question

2009-09-22T00:48:00.010-04:00

Dear Sir, I apologize for the unsolicited email, but I thought it you might have a free moment you might be able to help with something.

I am about 6 feet tall and prefer the windsor knot. I have noticed that the short end of my tie, once the knot is tied, is much shorter than the long end and cannot be placed in the little holder piece. So my the short end of my tie moves around a lot and is not held in place. It doesn't look very good. I know some people tuck this piece into their shirts but this just doesn't seen right to me. I also know that some people use a tie clip but with all due respect that just does not seem right for a 25 year-old. Do you have any other suggestions?

The gentleman above poses an interesting and not too-uncommon question. I have found that for most people, ties seems to be designed to only handle the four-in-hand when is comes to length. Anything else and they seem to run out of length in a flash - as is the case here.

I do know that some tie makers make longer ties, though they can be hard to find and there is no guarantee that one will even like the selection. Brooks Brothers, for example, has a special collection of extra long ties. When I am in a Windsor mood, I have only two ties that I know will work and still let me properly tuck the back blade into its holder.

When going for a Windsor, or even a half-Windsor, I prefer that my ties not be too bulky. Some men always want to see a chunky knot, but to me the full Windsor knot is itself already a bit hefty and I really don’t want to overdo the bulk factor. So, in my case at least all these preferences limit the actual tie options.

The loose Italian take on a Windsor

I'm also a little picky about the rear blade. With whatever knot I tie, I prefer that both the front and rear blade hang about even. It's a balance issue for me - the lack of relatively equal tie halves, front and back, feels awkward, like I have a big knot around my neck and a lone flap of silk hanging off-center. I don't like the feeling; it's like I'm faking it.

Ultimately though, you have to work with what you have and in this case it probably means jury-rigging your ties. I agree that the tie bar option is not a good fit. If nothing else, it would probably sit up too high and look a bit odd. And I agree that in most cases a tie bar worn out of necessity (or even choice) looks more fashiony than classy on a 25 year-old.

If you want to see what a good Windsor knot looks like, take a gander at this recent New York Times piece on the always dapper NYC Police Commissioner Raymond Kelly. The Comish has a particular dedication to the Windsor knot and is also a surprising font of information when it comes to dressing with personal flair.

Ray Kelly ties one on, under the watchful gaze of T.R.

The easiest option might be to use a small safety pin and tack the errant short piece to the back of your tie. Or, if you're game (or if your tailor is game) add a second keeper loop further up the tie positioned to always capture the rear blade.

To learn how to tie a Windsor knot, click here to view step-by-step instructions from Brook's Southern cousin, Ben Silver.

Personal Style Embodied: My Father

2009-09-13T15:48:00.010-04:00

You may have noticed that the span of time between posts has been a little longer recently.

Unfortunately, we are in the midst of a family emergency here. My father is quite ill and for a brief period of time, we were not sure if things would go his way.

He has recovered a bit and while his prognosis improves, dad is still very much in the thick of the woods. Being the sons of this retired physician, my brothers and I each understand the reality of life but also the vital importance of a positive outlook. I am very confident that he will recover and get back to a slightly less busy schedule.

At the same time this was all unfolding, I was also engaged in several reader discussions on the importance of personal style and finding one's own sartorial voice. As a small tribute to the man who shaped much of the person I am today, I am reposting an article from several years ago on this very topic.

The most significant impact on my personal style is without a doubt that of my father's. While there have been many other influences, from magazines and movies to managing a Ralph Lauren store, it always comes back to him.

My father has a timeless sense of taste and a respect for quality. He is, at heart, a J. Press man. He attended Yale College and then Yale Medical School back when young men were required to wear coat and tie to class, so Press was very much a part of his life. Beyond that, though, he is a true to form OCBD kind of guy.

To my knowledge, as long as I have been alive, he has never owned a pair of jeans.

He has always been without pretense though, never believing that any advantages offered to him by life made a whit of difference. He lives life very much as he dresses; comfortable and classic without being stuffy or off-putting.

To the contrary, he has always been an approachable guy, which is very important given his profession. In fact, he recently wrapped up a teaching position at his alma mater - educating medical students on how to actually interact with people.

Grandpa with his granddaughters

While he is a conservative dresser, my dad is by no means a sartorial wallflower. From white tie, tails and top hat for an annual dinner dance to creamy flannels, blue blazer, and a panama for a summer’s concert under the stars, he most certainly exemplifies great personal style.

I have many many mental snapshots of him that have helped to cement my love for clothing and its power. But one memory stands out because it was less about what he had on and more about who he is.

I was with a friend who worked in the hospital’s emergency room and we had stopped by so that he could drop something off. I tried to stay out of the way and unobtrusively stood in a corner watching the commotion.

Unexpectedly, I saw my dad come around the corner wearing a seersucker suit and white bucks – downright natty. In the emergency room no less! He has always held a strong personal belief that as a physician his patients always deserved to be treated with dignity because of the trust they put in him. Dressing well is a simple and visible show of that respect and affection.

What will forever hold a special place in my heart is what happened next. Not seeing me, he walked over to a man lying on a gurney along the wall, gently leaned over him and began to talk. Their heads close together, I could see the body of my dad's patient relax a bit. To him, that man was the only person in the world who mattered.

At that moment, what he had on was irrelevant; he was there to comfort and help this sick person. In that instant, the style on the outside was eclipsed by the man on the inside.

More than any glossy magazine or celebrity, that image will always be my definition of true style.

Going Custom - Part 3

2009-09-07T22:57:00.013-04:00

It's been a while since my last installment on the journey of my custom suit from VM Clothiers.

While it took longer than I had planned to wrap up this three-part review, rest assured that the extra time I've devoted to putting the suit through its paces has only reinforced my total satisfaction with the endeavor.

It's a great suit and I will be calling on Vishal again soon. Overall, it is very well constructed and, most importantly, fits me just right. The details are well thought out and in the right places and the design is classic yet modern enough to feel fresh.

I didn't make too many changes to the silhouette except to shorten the jacket's skirt an inch and narrow the lapels a touch.

This suit has traveled across the country stuffed into coach, sat through too many meetings to remember and given several presentations. In doing so, I can honestly say that it has passed with flying colors and actually received a fair amount of compliments.

The final product

For the price, I think that's a darn good deal. To be fair, is it the equivalent of a suit you would get from Henry Poole, Eric Finn or Georges de Paris? Probably not. Some of the interior finishing and detail work is not exact and I did not have several fittings and consultations with the actual tailors constructing the suit.

However, in this case I was not expecting the same level of extravagant detail which I would had this suit cost $2,500. For the amount VM Clothiers charges though (in the general range of $500-$600), you get a damn good suit.

Frankly, the kinds comments I regularly receive lead me to believe that no one thinks otherwise and that is just fine by me.

There are a number of details to this suit that stand out.

1. Here, you can see the unique fold-over collar detail. There is no felt backing the collar and none is needed. It is a very nicely constructed collar and lapel.

2. The trousers are cuffed and the standard addition of an extra piece of fabric helps to reduce wear that is caused by the heels of your shoes is another example of thought and detail.

3. While there is a coin slot in the right, front-hand pocket, I love the addition of the watch pocket. It is built into the top of the waistband, so even when wearing a belt, unfettered access to change, or even a pocket watch, is assured.

4. The trousers also have a standard ridged trim on both the right- and left-hand sides of the waistband to reduce the tendency of one's shirt to ride up. It is very soft and not even noticeable, but still a welcome and practical addition.

5. Here, you can see the hacking cut of the pockets, something new for me on a suit. I really like this look as it gives a personal twist to a traditional garment. I also elected to add a ticket pocket, an English touch I've always liked.

6. I also chose surgeon's cuffs. While a an added expense, though nominal in this case, I am adamant that for a custom suit, working sleeve buttons is a requirement. It's one of those thing things that makes custom so very custom.