Menswear on the Move - Part 1

Things are going full steam ahead on the menswear front, particularly when it comes to New York City, the capital of fashion retail. High end labels are making serious investments and seem quite bullish on the future of men's fashion.

Locals style icons like Ralph Lauren are putting money on the table with major brick-and-mortar expansions - in his case, turning the landmark Rhinelander Mansion into a men's only store and building a new flagship across the street to house his women's and home collations.

Other marquee names are expanding their New York footprint as well. In May, Canali opened its first Manhattan store just steps away from the New York Stock Exchange, and not far from Hermès' 5,000-square-foot Wall Street outlet. That store, which opened in 2007, has a pronounced emphasis on the luxury firm's men's line. Canali is still in the early stages of executing an ambitious plan to develop a retail network across the United States. The New York location is the fourth of five Canali outlets in the U.S., including two in California and one in Florida. A Las Vegas outlet is scheduled to open later this year.

Giorgio Canali, president of Canali’s North American operations points to the financial district's growing residential population – the store is housed in a former office building currently being converted into luxury condos – and its attraction to tourists as benefits of the location. “It was time to showcase the entire collection the way we want it,” Canali said, adding that the company continues to look at additional locations in the U.S. but has no definite plans. Other luxury brands, such as Tiffany and Thomas Pink, have also opened stores around Wall Street. These companies are all keenly aware that , when it comes Gotham, many of their better customers work on Wall Street, so these outlets are certainly well placed.

Hermès is making a major bet on its male customers too and is planning to open its first men’s-only store on Madison Avenue this fall. The 6,000-square-foot outlet will be located directly across the street from the company’s existing flagship at 691 Madison. The store will carry the company’s entire assortment of men’s merchandise ranging from ready-to-wear and accessories to lifestyle products. It will also include an entire floor dedicated to custom and made-to-measure merchandise. The store will be the first of its kind in the world.

The Wall Street store, noted above, showcases men’s ties inside the main entrance rather than the women’s accessories and handbags that are generally up front in its other units. That store also offers separate made-to-measure suit and shirt department as well as leather goods, watches, clothing and sportswear. Once the new men's only branch is open in mid-town, Hermes will have a solid menswear presence in the city's two key retail sectors. The company will launch a men’s ad campaign this fall as well; the brand has a solid men’s business, with menswear accounting for about 45% of sales.

This trend is not only contained to the States; French luxury label Lanvin is expanding its footprint in the men’s department with a refreshed retail presence in London. The new 1,600-square-foot Savile Row boutique will replace their former New Bond Street location. The store will showcase the French brand’s runway collection, classic "15 Faubourg" line and made-to-measure, a cornerstone of Lanvin’s menswear business since the 1920s.

“Men’s is showing a great dynamic,” said Lanvin president Paul Deneve to DNR, also outlining plans to renovate its Paris flagship men’s location on the Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honore. The 6,500-square-foot men’s store will house a VIP room for its bespoke clients on the third floor.

Of course, with prices starting around $5,000 for a basic bespoke suit, I don’t think I’ll be stopping by anytime soon.

A Reasonable Delay

Well, I am very sorry for the delay in recent posts, but I think it's for a pretty good reason.

On Wednesday, July 9, I was starting work on a quick article about a wonderful posting by fellow blogger Easy & Elegant Life. About two sentences into my missive, that was to be titled "An Example of Elegance," I was sidetracked by a trip to the hospital for the birth of my beautiful son, Brooks. He and mom are in great shape and we are starting to get used to the new swing of life. Everything has changed, but already I could not imagine it any other way.

To that point, I want to put in a good word for D.C.'s Sibley Memorial Hospital. From start to finish the maternity ward's staff was wonderful and made the entire experience a happy and memorable one. They are all pros and great people to boot. Thanks very much - from all three of us!

And I didn't forget about my intended post. I've been waiting to get back to it, so for the sake of brevity here's the abridged version.

On Easy & Elegant Life, there is a wonderful link to Charlie Rose's interview with Hubert de Givenchey, surely one of the most stylish gents still breathing. The whole discussion, what makes a man elegant - what makes him a gentleman, is a treat and worth seeing. It certainly gives me the inspiration to keep fighting the good fight. Please stop by and take a look.

I do make an effort to keep my personal life out of your way, but figured this is a pretty reasonable reason for some slower posts in the coming days. So, please bear with me and don't worry, I'll be writing - It's just likely that I will have a baby in one hand.

Style Guide: The Elusive In-Between

Some while back, my fellow MensFlair columnist Simon Crompton and I traded thoughts on the in-between look; that particular style which falls somewhere in the midst of formal and casual.

He commented that Americans probably do this a little better than the English. I retorted that I know more than my share of fellow Americans who can handily prove him wrong – or something to that effect. He probably has a point though; where the English still tilt in favor of more professional work attire, Americans have years of corporate casual under their belts – for better or worse.

Actually defining what constitutes the in-between look is difficult but I eventually settled on Justice Potter Stewart’s criteria of, “I know it when I see it.” But the question still remains; how does one compose an outfit that is neither too dressy nor overly casual? While not exactly the stuff of deep thinking, the truth is it’s harder to pull off than many of us admit. Sure, actors and celebrities always seem look perfectly in-between but they have access to either well staffed wardrobe departments or a well paid lifestyle consultant.

So, what about the rest of us? How do we find that elusive but stylish place?

The first thing I would say is that the in-between look is more formal than casual; that is, it is an assemblage of clothing and demeanor that shows you have style and taste but are not too fussy. It's the ability to look polished without the usual trappings of formality. For example, one can look very sharp in old jeans, 15-year old brogues, a white oxford and a sport coat. The actor Hugh Grant comes to mind, he perpetually looks like he’s ready for either an evening of bar hopping or an awards gala.

This image from the Sartorialist highlights an effective mix of pattern and detail and shows that wearer is comfortable expressing his own style in a very stylish way.



I have heard the in-between look described as informally dressy, or conversely, as casually formal. Whatever you call it, the goal is to be well put together but not really dressed up. At the same time, you do not want to look sloppy or shoddy. The outfit mentioned above would fall apart if the jeans had just been worn while clearing brush or if the jacket was too large and the sleeves had never been hemmed. This is look where details matter a great deal because a fine line is being walked.

I think there is some validity to the argument that American men are more successful at informally dressing well. Another reader, an Italian gentleman, pointed out that European men are often very good at dressing formally but are a bit hesitant when it comes to toning down that level of dress; it’s not a natural move. Where Americans like to match their style of dress to where the want to be – what they aspire to be, if you will – it is still fairly common for Europeans to dress according to social station, even if not deliberately so.

I had never really looked at it that way before. Such a mindset can make the in-between place an awkward and unfamiliar one, even to very accomplished men. A good example of this dilemma was recounted by Sir Christopher Meyer, Britain’s former ambassador to the United States, in his book DC Confidential.

It involves the first meeting between President Bush and Prime Minister Tony Blair, which took place at Camp David, the president’s rural Maryland retreat. White House guidelines for the weekend called for a casual dress code but no jeans. Downing Street was stumped; how should Blair dress?



What would have been a ten, maybe 15-minute conversation in the States turned into a major production back in London. After a great deal of debate, he was outfitted in an awkward sweater and dark blue corduroys that were so tight that Blair could barely slip his hands into the pockets. Politics aside, Bush appeared quite comfortable in chinos, button down shirt and a leather flight jacket.

Negotiating the formal v. casual minefield does not always have to take on such international ramifications, but it sure can feel that way sometimes. Try and keep it natural and simple - in what are you comfortable? What do you like to wear? If you have a favorite pair of gray trousers, pair them with suede loafers and really nice polo shirt. For a little unexpected color add a ribbon belt.



In cooler weather, targeted laying can add style without formality. Sometimes a favorite sport coat or sweater can give jeans or khakis a push up the sartorial ladder. Alternately, in warmer weather pairing tailored pants with a simple sharp shirt and some elegant shoes can have the best impact.

In the end, bringing together high and low fashion in a simple pallate is a key to this very personal of looks.

Happy 4th of July!

To all my fellow American readers, I want to wish you a happy Fourth of July! With over 10,000 readers we have come along way and I want to thank all of you for making Off The Cuff a small part of your life.

So throw on your favorite pair of Nantucket Reds, worn out polo shirt and docksiders. Put some good beer on ice, fire up the grill and gather your friends and family around for a long day of relaxing. And as the evening rolls in, get ready for the fireworks. Enjoy.

Vintage Wrist Watches

I noticed on Polo's Rugby blog that there was a post about the vintage watches being offered at the company's East Hampton store. Though not the focus of the original post - a shot of some vintage sunglasses in a display case - questions rolled in about the great watches displayed on ribbon bands alongside the sunglasses.

That's a great example of the emotional power of watches, vintage mechanical ones in particular. I have a few vintage watches, some are family heirlooms and some were purchased. Each one is special and satisfies a particular aspect of my personality. Even the modern watches that I own are almost all mechanical - manual wind or automatic - and tend to be unique rather than flashy.

While traditional leather straps ans steel bracelets are just fine, certainly when they are original to the timepiece, a classic preppy ribbon strap can add flair and Ivy League panache to your wrist. British brand Smart Turnout makes a great version that's based on the rugged NATO strap design. They come in a range of colors representing English military units and several American Ivy League colleges.


Smart Turnout Watch Bands

When it comes to vintage watches, you can head off to East Hampton, N.Y., and visit the Rugby store or you can track down dealers closer to home. Believe it or not, you can also hit the web in search of sites with good deals and equally important, a good inventory. The great thing about vintage watches is that when you finally find what you're looking for it is a very personal score.

Here are several websites that I like keep an eye on to see whats coming onto the market. I cannot offer you any guarantees or standards, but the companies below already have excellent reputations.

Cool Vintage Watches
Tic-Tock.com
Yorktime
Second Time Around

If you want to see some exceptional early vintage watches, from say, around 1914, check out Old Wrist Watches.

So take a look around and give it a try; vintage mechanical watches and preppy ribbon straps are great ways to bring some stylish elan to your summer wardrobe.

One Thing: The Woven Leather Belt

Belts are a fact of life and most of us have a closet full of failed attempts at finding just the right combination of style and utility. For even the most sartorially proficient, finding a good fit can sometimes mean forgoing the style we really wanted – a practical example of form following function.

Even when those two goals are met, many men are, frankly, clueless when it comes to actually pairing a belt with the rest of their outfit. For those who wear a suit every day, it’s a simple drill: match your belt and shoes. Of course that’s not some kind of inviolate law; rather, like so many other fashion rules, it is meant to help you learn the basics before becoming creative.

The rest of the working world is more or less on its own. Without the time-tested conventions of formal dress, the open ended options offered by casual work environments leave some men a bit confused. I can’t count the number of times I’ve seen elegant, narrow dress belts clumsily paired with slouchy khakis. The coup de gras is when that gent is also sporting shiny dress cap toes; I see it more than I would prefer, it’s not pretty.

I think I can offer up a good solution though; a belt that can span the arc of casual dressing, from jeans and a t-shirt to pressed chinos and a blue blazer. The woven leather belt.



An excellent option that provides long term style and customized functionality, the woven leather belt is a good investment financially and sartorially. In brown or black, this multipurpose workhorse can fit in very well in most casual work environments. With a neutral yet masculine style and the ability to fit you exactly right, this appealing belt hits all the marks.

Though not usually appropriate with a suit, as this great picture from Scott Schuman's Sartorialist shows us, it can be done very well.



When it comes to everyday wear, the woven leather belt’s inherent style tackles most any corporate casual situation with aplomb. And in addition to being able to size it to your exact needs, this style of belt also has year-round appeal. It is casual enough to be right at home with your jeans, but still possesses a refined quality that pairs well with dressier pants.

Look for one crafted from strong but supple leather, tightly woven and at least 1 ¼ inches wide. Unless you are going for some kind of Southwest cowboy look, avoid decorative patterns and shiny hardware. Stick with a traditional solid brass buckle and leather keeper. Bear in mind that designs will vary and some brands have a polished look while others are clearly meant for your days off.

I’m not claiming that this is an all purpose belt, or that it works for every occasion; but it’s a belt you should have on hand for those many in between situations.

Brooks & Browne Staying Together

DNR announced today that Brooks Brothers and Thom Browne will continue their relationship through spring 2011, if not longer.

The companies will announce today that they have signed an extension of the deal under which Browne will continue to serve as guest designer of the Brooks Brothers Black Fleece collection. When Browne was invited to create an exclusive men's and women's collection for fall 2007, there was much speculation about how he would interpret and refresh the company's classic look. The collaboration, a first for the 190-year-old company, was meant to both highlight the Brooks' quality and tradition and pull it into a modern light.

When it debuted, the collection drew mostly positive press, though there were significant rumblings from those who felt Browne's penchant for cropped jackets and high water pants were costume rather than clothing. There were also some initial glitches, including delivery problems and soft women’s sales, but overall results were strong enough to keep the relationship in place.

Black Fleece provides a window into the bespoke potential of Brooks Brothers; as one sales associate recently told me, "it shows the customer what Brooks can be - the quality and attention to detail."

Brooks Brothers is also expected to announce plans to open the first freestanding Black Fleece store in New york's Greenwich Village.